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Exploring Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory (Part II)
Day two of my Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory trip in Lake Oswego started with a convenient 2-minute walk from my hotel to Lake View Village and its restaurants (you can read about my first day here in Part I). St. Honoré Boulangerie was a perfect breakfast choice - a charming French bakery anchored by an open-air kitchen and custom clay firebrick oven turning out pastries and fresh-baked bread. You’ll see glass cases filled with treats such as eclairs, chausson aux pommes (apple turnovers), and opéra (sponge cake layered with chocolate and espresso butter cream), along with a menu of salads, quiche, soups and sandwiches. I found a sunny window table in this cozy spot to linger over hot apple cider sweetened with caramel and a flaky chocolate croissant. Tip: The first Wednesday of every month is $1 Croissant Day.
The walk back to Lakeshore Inn also detours to one of Lake Oswego’s prettiest paths, the Headlee Walkway, which meanders along northern Lakewood Bay. I spent some time on a beautiful October morning strolling this pedestrian way, which is also home to Mike Suri’s Sprout sculpture, part of the Arts Council of Lake Oswego’s Gallery Without Walls walking tour.
Back at my hotel, I hopped into my car to explore some of the nearby communities in Mt. Hood Territory. My first destination was Fir Point Farms in Aurora. One of the stops on the Canby Farm Loop, this 35-acre family-owned farm is open year-round and especially popular on the weekends with picnic areas, hay rides, a corn maze, petting zoo, and children’s activities. October is harvest season with guests visiting the 6-acre pumpkin patch to pick out pumpkins and celebrate the harvest festival with pumpkin painting, a kids zone, and other family-friendly events.
Though I visited on a weekday and missed the weekend’s festivities, the country market and Country Grains dining room was a lovely lunch break. The market is stocked with farm-fresh produce, honey, apple cider, jams, jellies, gifts and more. It was hard to resist all the desserts made fresh every day including donuts, cookies, cakes, and pies (on my visit, raspberry-rhubarb, cherry, peach and apple), but I finally decided on a decadent gooey cinnamon roll for dessert.
Next, I was off to Canby, located about a half an hour from Portland, to visit TMK Creamery for a scheduled tour of this family-owned farm. Greeted by engaging co-owner Tessa Koch, I learned that TMK Farm began with her husband Todd and a Holstein heifer he bought as part of a 4-H project in his youth (TMK are his initials). “The dairy farm has been here for over 20 years,” said Tessa, who grew up on a cattle ranch and hay farm in southern Oregon. “My husband started it when he was 12, and built the dairy when he was still in college.” He was joined by his siblings Marc and Shauna, and the dairy farm is now a successful family business with approximately 20 cows.
Tessa and Todd Koch
The Kochs’ most recent expansion is TMK Creamery, a cheese-making plant, observation and tasting room, and retail space. This addition opened in 2017 to introduce consumers to a more immersive experience and to spotlight the creamery’s new farmstead cheeses made by Shauna Koch. Shauna comes in three times a week when the cows are milked to make the cheese, which is available on the website for local pick-up, and area markets and restaurants.
Because their operation is small, they have the unique advantage of being able to offer signature single-cow cheese made by what they call their “cow-lebrities,” because, as Tessa explains with a smile, “the cows are the heroes of this story. Three different cows make their own cheese, and the rest of the cheese is a group effort. We want people to see that not only do they each have their own taste, but it’s a way to promote the animal and what they create for us.” You’ll find gouda, aged and smoked cheddar, queso fresco, and a variety of cheese curds such as the popular garlic-dill. I went home with smoked garlic cheddar (see here) and, after polishing it off, I regret that I didn’t buy one of everything!
As I was led on a tour to see the cows and the production facility, Tessa explained the purpose of the new building is a focus on education. “We wanted to open it up to the public, for people to see a real American farm and where their food comes from. We tour almost daily, all ages - we had the Oregon Culinary Institute students earlier this year and tomorrow we have a pre-school class.” said Tessa. As I meet Miss TMK, Holly, Annie, and Amber, and Marc Koch, who manages the daily milking and farming operations, I learn that all the cows are named, with some of the farm’s herd the descendants of the first cow purchased by Todd as a youngster. “Since our farm is on a smaller scale, we can open it up to the public like this. We want to show people that we control the whole process all the way through. We make the feed and manage the quality, maintain the health of the cows, milk them, and produce everything right here, which results in a better quality of product.”
And it’s not all about milk and cheese on this dairy farm. The Kochs are also creating a line of spirits. “We’re thinking of marketing our ‘cow-cohol’ with “have you had your dairy today?” Tessa said with a laugh. She went on to explain that not only is this a creative process, but a sustainable farming practice. “After we’re done making the cheese, we collect the whey, ferment it, and then distill it. Our first batch was made in September so this is only the second batch - three times distilled with no filtering.” As I taste, I comment on its distinctive artisanal character which is smooth with floral notes and a rounded sweetness that is creamy on the palate. “We want to do a single-cow vodka too and pair it with the single-cow cheese. We want to do things with our farm that haven’t been done before and show people our authentic quality.”
TMK Creamery offers public tours every Saturday with private tours throughout the week and special events such as cheese and wine tastings, workshops, and visiting food trucks.
My taste of TMK vodka was the perfect prelude to my pre-dinner cocktail plans. I was in for a special treat as Paul Terry, one of my favorite Sedona cocktail talents, had relocated to Oregon and invited me to visit him at his new venue. After freshening up back at my hotel in Lake Oswego, a 10-minute Uber ride brought me to the Boundary Social Club, a members-only wine vault and private club in Portland’s SW Corbett neighborhood.
Paul Terry at Boundary Social Club
“Portland's best kept secret,” “fantastic gathering spot,” “comfortable and elegant” are some of the raves I had read about this private retreat, and I had to agree. Hidden in a deli parking lot is a door marked with a simple B that leads you to this wine and cocktail oasis. It was also perfect timing. Previously bar service was available Wednesday through Saturday, but on my visit it was the first day of opening on Tuesdays (my last day in Oregon) and Paul was also debuting his new cocktail menu. Members have access to the club and a 70,000-bottle wine vault 24/7, beverage service Tuesday through Saturday evenings, the opportunity to purchase wine at 10% above cost and access to rare wine libraries, special events, and meeting spaces such as a conference room and brand-new patio. Of course, there’s an impressive wine list including a rotating Wineemotion selection.
I was on a mission to try Paul’s newest cocktails, however, and wow - what an array! His cocktail-making prowess includes house syrups, complex flavors, and finessed finishes, all resulting in fantastic and superlative libations. I’d be hard pressed to pick a favorite of those I tried, but two at the top of my list were his Midnight Daiquiri with white and blackstrap rums, Fernet Branca, sarsaparilla, black tea, and fresh lime juice, and Old Man Pecan with brown-butter washed bourbon, cocoa bitters and a salted pecan demerara syrup made by boiling demerara sugar with salt and roasted pecans and double straining. Thank you Paul for the wonderful visit!
It was now dinner time at the end of my fun-filled day in Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory, so back at my hotel I made the easy walk to my favorite downtown spot - Lake View Village - to try a new restaurant on my last night. I had spied Five Spice Seafood & Wine Bar while at breakfast (it’s located above St. Honore Boulangerie), and pulled up a chair at the bar in this upscale seafood restaurant.
My delicious seafood feast of shrimp cocktail and pan-roasted sturgeon with black rice risotto, verjus emulsion, wild mushrooms and tobiko was made even better with bartender Jennifer’s menu recommendations and suggested wine pairings. You’ll want to look for her if you visit - she made a great night even better.
My time spent in The Territory was coming to a close, sadly, but I started off my day right the next morning by returning to St. Honoré Boulangerie for breakfast, this time Quiche Lorraine with bacon, caramelized onions and Emmental cheese.
Packed up, I had one more stop before I headed to the airport - a tour of Bob's Red Mill Natural Foods in Milwaukie, Oregon. If you’re an avid home cook like me, or just a fan of quality whole grains, you’re familiar with this label graced with the smiling countenance of founder Bob Moore.
Bob Moore
On our tour, we were told he was inspired to launch a stone-ground flour mill company in the 1960s after reading"John Goffe's Mill.”
Through videos and our tour guide, and a conversation with Bob Moore himself, we learned about the growth over the years, including rebuilding after a devastating arsonist’s fire, the milling process, sourcing grain from all over the world, and more about this philanthropic founder who has since transferred the ownership of the company to his employees. You’ll want to include this fascinating tour in your plans if you’re in the Portland area. And the highlight? Getting to meet founder Bob, who often makes the time to chat with visitors on the tour.
I partnered with Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory tourism, and you can find more information on the region's activities, dining, lodging, and annual events at Mt. Hood Territory.
Exploring Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory (Part I)
Oswego Lake
In a previous Oregon trip report, I covered my time spent at a fun and festive culinary event, Nicky USA's Wild About Game. It was the perfect kick-off activity for a few days of exploration in the picturesque region of Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory (find out all the details about this can’t-miss annual event by clicking the photo below).
Mt. Hood Territory encompasses Clackamas County, including sections of Oregon Wine Region and part of Portland. It’s a place awash in natural beauty, and although outdoor activities - skiing, hiking, fishing, kayaking - abound, my plans were to explore some of the artistic, historic, and culinary gems.
After checking out of my cozy room at the beautiful Mt. Hood Oregon Resort in Welches, it was time to hit the road and explore more of The Territory on my way to Lake Oswego. My first stop was historic Oregon City. Located on Willamette River, it was established in 1829 and became the last stop on the Oregon Trail. It was also recognized this year as one of the winners of the 2018 Great American Main Street Award.
You’ll see Main Street lined with welcoming restaurants and pubs, and trying to decide where to dine for lunch was made difficult with the range of choices. I was torn between Vietnamese at Pho Ti, Scandinavian at Ingrid's Scandinavian Food, Italian at La Famiglia, or Latin American at Mesa Fresca, but finally decided on Mesa Fresca, a warm and inviting spot where chef Roy Galván’s menu features dishes from Mexico, Peru, and the Southwest. The lunch menu offers soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, and tacos, but as a Peruvian food fan, I was here for a Pisco Sour (a traditional Peruvian cocktail using a spirit distilled from grapes called Pisco) and lomo saltado, the national dish of Peru. The combination of tender steak, peppers, onions, tomatoes and french fries in a tangy soy-based stir-fry sauce served with rice hit the spot.
A short stroll after my tasty lunch brought me to Oregon City’s famous Municipal Elevator. Oregon City’s environs are divided into an upper area on top of a bluff and the city located below along the Willamette River. To connect the two sections, the current Oregon City Municipal Elevator was built in 1954 to replace the original 1912 water-powered elevator (residents at one time reached the bluff by following Native American trails and, later, via a series of wooden stairs).
The Oregon City Municipal Elevator is one of only four municipal elevators in the world and its “Elevator Street” is the only vertical street in North America. Once at the top, walk McLoughlin Promenade, a half-mile scenic path that follows the bluff to Willamette Falls and overlooks downtown Oregon City.
It also offers a bird’s-eye view of Oregon City Bridge, also known as the Arch Bridge, which is on the National Register of Historic Places.
Back on the road, I soon arrived at my destination - the City of Lake Oswego. My home-away-from-home for the next two days would be The Lakeshore Inn, which occupies a prime location on Oswego Lake within walking distances to parks, restaurants and shops.
It was also an ideal launching pad for a self-guided Gallery Without Walls walking tour, an outdoor rotating exhibit featuring over seventy permanent and loaned works of art. I started at Sundeleaf Plaza, located five steps from my door, where sculptures included Patricia Vader’s wind-driven metal “Sunflower” and its spinning wheels, and Ed Humpherys “Wormy Apple #2.”
I spent the rest of my afternoon rambling around Oswego Lake and Millenium Park Plaza admiring more works of art on a beautiful October day. You can download the 2018 brochure here, load the L.O Art Tour app, or arrange for a custom docent-led tour through the Arts Council of Lake Oswego.
Back in my lakeside room, I had a chance to relax before freshening up and making the 2-minute walk to downtown’s Lake View Village and my dining destination, Pizzeria sul Lago. This pizzeria helmed by acclaimed Portland chef Nick Ford opened earlier this year and you’ll want to add it to your must-visit list of restaurants in Lake Oswego.
Naturally, I started with my favorite Italian cocktail, a Negroni (link to the history of this libation here) and settled in on the pretty patio overlooking Millennium Plaza Park and Lakewood Bay. Chef Ford shops the farmers market for inspiration for the seasonal dishes so be sure to check the “From the Farmers” section on the menu which, on my visit, featured salads such as heirloom tomatoes with bacon vinaigrette and roasted Padrón peppers, and green beans with peaches, blueberries, cucumbers and goat cheese. My order of roasted corn on the cob slathered with a creamy aioli spiked with Calabrian chile and dusted with Parmesan cheese was the perfect starter.
Of course, the wood-fired oven turning out fragrant Neapolitan-style pies with a puffy, blistered crust takes center stage. While the daily special with pear, candied walnuts, and blue cheese was tempting, I was drawn to the mushroom pizza layered with a garlic-flecked cream sauce, mozzarella, fresh spinach, shaved red onion, peppers, and fontina cheese crowned with salty-crispy slices of speck, a spiced cured ham. In fact, it was so delicious, I left no room for planned dessert at ice cream shop Salt & Straw across the street - next time!
I ended my day full and happy and looking forward to touring more of this beautiful region. Click the photo below for part II and visits to St. Honoré Boulangerie, Fir Point Farms, TMK Creamery, Boundary Social Club, and Five Spice Seafood + Wine Bar, and Bob’s Red Mill.
I partnered with Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory tourism, and you can find more information on the region's activities, dining, lodging, and annual events at Mt. Hood Territory.
MT. HOOD TERRITORY: Nicky USA's Wild About Game 2018
The view from the festivities
Last month, I had the opportunity to attend one of the Northwest’s premier culinary celebrations - Nicky USA's Wild About Game. Nicky USA, a butchery and purveyor of specialty game and meats in the Pacific Northwest, supplies clients all over the country and launched this popular event 18 years ago. Every fall, they invite chefs, farmers, ranchers, and artisanal producers to feature delicious collaborations in an event which culminates in a friendly and competitive Seattle versus Portland chef cook-off. For me, as a first-time visitor to Oregon, it was also the perfect introduction to some of the region’s best chefs and the talented community from which they source superlative ingredients.
On a gorgeous autumn morning before doors officially opened, I gathered with fellow media on the picturesque grounds of Mt. Hood Oregon Resort, the host hotel. We were warmly greeted by Mark Cockcroft, Nicky USA's Sales & Marketing Director, who shared the history of Nicky USA. “We’re the meat concierge that fulfills everybody’s meat dreams,” he began with a smile.
We learned that the original showcase was an industry-only event, but word-of-mouth made it so popular that it was opened to the public. “Now it’s about half and half,” said Mark. “The public started clamoring for tickets, so first we added 50, then 100, and now we’re up to 325 tickets, which is about the size limit. We still love the intimacy. It’s kind of a peek into the industry, a glimpse behind the stove with the chefs, if you will.” In addition to the chefs competition, Wild About Game features an Artisan Marketplace. “It’s where our vendors come to show what they offer,” continued Mark. “We have about 40 vendors with local artisans that are part of our great food culture here in the Northwest.”
Founder Geoff Latham started out in 1990 as a small operation, first offering local chefs rabbits sold from the trunk of his Ford Escort, and almost 30 years later has expanded to wild game such as boar, elk, venison, partridge, bison, and quail, along with exotic and farm-raised meats, and most recently has partnered with a beekeeper for their own line of Willamette Valley Farmland honey. On our tour, we were educated about Nicky USA’s commitment to quality and fostering loyal relationships with their clients and sources.
A special experience was meeting Bob Stangel and his daughters Marta and Theresa of Stangle Bison Ranch, the source of Nicky Farms grass-fed bison. Bob shared the history of their 6800-acre ranch - “Our family has had a ranch in Enterprise since 1958, but in 1979 we got our first bison, and by 1987, we had sold all the cattle and committed to raising bison as a 100% grass-fed operation.” For the guests, Chef Sara Boam (Stella’s Kitchen in Portland) served a Paleo dish of their bison braised in apple cider and cinnamon and served with pickled apples, cauliflower puree accented with coconut milk, and carrots cooked with orange juice and ghee.
We were also introduced to the title sponsor of Wild About Game, Carter Cutlery, founded by 17th generation Yoshimoto bladesmith Murray Carter, who is world renowned for hand-forged knives. We were able to chat with apprentices Alex and Jamison who shared how each knife is one-of-a-kind work of art and made using traditional Japanese techniques. The lucky winner of the chef’s competition received a $2,000 custom-made chef’s knife.
Food and beverage vendors at Wild About Game included Anderson Ranches, Aurora Elixirs, Bad Granny Hard Cider, Carlton Farms, Carter Cutlery, Cascade Brewing, Case Study Coffee, Chelsea Farms Oysters, Classic Foods, Creekstone Farms, Culture Aromatics, Del Fuego Ironworks, Division Winemaking Co., Gilded Greens, Gilgamesh Brewing, Ground Breaker Brewing, Hestan Cue, House of Spain EVOO, Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Jaz Spirits, La Belle Farms, Maker’s Mark, Manchester Farms, Marshall’s Haute Sauce, Mary’s Chicken, Misty Mt. Mushrooms, Nueske’s, Olympia Provisions, Oregon Beef Council, Painted Hills Natural Beef, Principe Foods, Ranger Chocolate, Salt & Straw, San Pellegrino, Tails & Trotters, Salumi Cured Meats, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Townshend’s Distillery, Wayfinder Beer, and Willamette Valley Vineyards.
What makes this event so special is the opportunity to meet some of Oregon’s award-winning chefs along with owners and purveyors.
Sarah and Dirk Marshall create handmade sauces at Marshall’s Haute Sauce and Sarah is the author of Preservation Pantry. For the last three years, Wild About Game has debuted a special-edition chef collaboration sauce, and this year, Haute Sauce collaborated with Chef Bryant Kryck of Portland’s Alto Bajo to create Cherry Bomb Tequila Adobo. Not only was it delicious on Chef Bryant’s dish of al pastor, but fantastic on roast chicken in my kitchen.
Chef Don Salamone of Burger Stevens joined forces with Creekstone Farms and Del Fuego Ironworks for smashed cheeseburgers with caramelized onions.
Wagshal's carved up their award-winning Montreal-style prime smoked brisket whose preparation takes weeks (dry-aged, cured with red wine, rubbed with a 16-spice secret blend, and smoked).
We chatted with vendors such as La Belle Farms (duck prosciutto and foie gras), Culture Aromatics (dehydrated organic vegetable blends), Aaron Silverman of Tails and Trotters, and Chef AJ Voytko of The Porter Hotel who worked with Hudson Valley Foie Gras for Foieklava with Hudson Valley Foie Gras, hazelnuts, duck confit, and huckleberry gel.
Chef Patrick McKee of Perlot Portland partnered with Classic Foods for tomato-braised elk shoulder and potato gnocchi.
Angela Covington of Manchester Farms Quail fed happy guests quail sausage, spiced quail legs, and “Toad in the Hole” with quail eggs.
Other tasty tables included Olympia Provisions charcuterie, Nueske’s bacon and pimento cheese biscuits, Salumi Artisan Cured Meats, Misty Mountain Mushrooms, lamb tartare from Anderson Ranches, and short rib katsu with Hestan Cue.
Plenty of beverages were sampled, including my latest obsession - Cold Tree Gin with toasted juniper and local honey and Verstovia Spruce Tip Vodka made with Sitka Spruce tree tips poured by Faith Dionne of Jaz Spirits.
No one went thirsty with selections such as Hanny Hard Cider, Townshend’s Distillery, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Cascade Brewing, Case Study Coffee, Division Winemaking Co., Ground Breaker Brewing, Wayfinder Beer, and Willamette Valley Vineyards.
And thanks to a Cocktail Showdown, fans of craft libations were happy too.
Congratulations to Judges Choice winner Mitchell Sennewald from Interurban with his “Hell or Highwash” (smoked pork belly fat wash with Maker’s Mark 46, sweet vermouth, Water Ave. espresso, and Raft bitters) and People’s Choice Winner Jason Le of Multnomah Whiskey Library and his "Goin’ Steady.”
Conner Slevin of Loyal Legion: The Most Dangerous Game with Maker’s Mark, Nicky USA “Meatdori” (guanciale-infused Midori, Raft Orange Bitters, Raft Cardamom Bitters, Lime, Simple Syrup, Morcia-Spiced Blood Tincture Splatter)
Those with a sweet tooth were treated to desserts like Ranger Chocolates and Salt and Straw.
For the main event, the chef’s competition featured four chefs from Portland versus four chefs from Seattle facing off with one of four proteins.
Duck:
• Sarah Pliner, Aviary, Portland: Roasted Duck Breast with Lychee Chutney, Braised Duck Leg Cabbage Rolls with Fermented Black Bean and Chrysanthemum
• Derek Ronspies, Le Petit Cochon, Seattle: Tobacco-Rubbed Duck Breast with Cocoa Duck Leg Rillette Tortelli, Barley Radicchio Salad, Foie Gras Nage, Pickled Gizzard Vinaigrette, Chicharrone, Cherry Chutney
Winner: Sarah Pliner
Nicky Farms Partridge:
• Peter Cho, Han Oak, Portland: Partridge Hot Pot, Shaved Roulade of Partridge, Game Bird Broth, Brassicas Salad
• Aaron Willis, Ciudad, Seattle: Partridge Porridge, Foraged Mushroom and Black Garlic, Pickled Beets and Berries, Wild Watercress Oil, Charcoal Roasted Bone Broth
Winner: Chef Peter Cho
Maui Nui Wild Hawaiian Venison:
• Chris DiMinno, Trifecta Tavern, Portland: Roasted Leg of Venison, Hoppin' John, Early Fall Vegetables and Greens
• David Nichols, Rider, Seattle: Smoked Hawaiian Venison, Brown Butter Hearts of Palm Soubise, Summer Corn, Blue Elderberry Compote, White Chanterelles, and Green Elderberry Au Jus
Winner: Chef David Nichols
Nicky Farms Rabbit: Chef Alex Barkley of Manolin, Rabbit winner
• Justin Woodward, Castagna, Portland: Braised Rabbit, Fermented Sausage, Sour cream, Bay Capers
• Alex Barkley, Manolin, Seattle: Rabbit Tamal with Black Garlic Mole
Winner: Chef Alex Barkley
Congratulations to Peter Cho who won both the popular vote and the judges’ competition!
Fantastic food and drink, an idyllic setting, and a passionate community - Nicky USA’s Wild About Game is a must-attend event, one I hope to return to next year!
I partnered with Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory tourism, and you can find more information on the region's activities, dining, lodging, and annual events at Mt. Hood Territory.
Click this link for Part I of my time spent in this beautiful destination with visits to Lake Oswego, Aurora, Canby, and Oregon City.