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Favorite Sichuan Recipes From Fuschia Dunlop's Land of Plenty
Land of Plenty: A Treasury of Authentic Sichuan Cooking by Fuschia Dunlop has been one of my favorite cookbooks for more than 20 years. I’ll be adding more photos as I find them, but here are a couple of my favorites:
Pock-marked Mother Chen's bean curd (ma po dou fu) (page 313). For the ma po tofu photo above, I used firm tofu, although I prefer it with soft.
Dry-fried chicken (ganbian ji) (page 243)
Chicken with chiles (la zi ji), page 240.
Fideuà Mixta - a Spanish Favorite
Originally posted in April 2016
While paella has its legions of fans, it's the Catalan dish fideuà, using pasta instead of rice, which has my heart. I was not in Valencia, Spain, however, when I fell in love, but in Scottsdale, Arizona at the Spanish-influenced Prado eight years ago. Since Chef Claudio Urciuoli (now at Noble Eatery) cooked my first pan and I researched it, it's become one of my favorite dishes to make and as a participant in Fry's Taste of Spain campaign, I've finally been motivated to put the recipe to print.
Unlike paella which uses Calasparra or Bomba rice, fideuà is made with short lengths of thin, dried pasta or fideos (fideus in Valencian). Here in Arizona, this pasta is easy to find, especially in Mexican markets. Look for packages such as those pictured below, which can vary in thickness. You could also use angel hair or vermicelli pasta broken into 2-inch lengths. For this recipe serving two generously, I used a 7-ounce package of La Moderna fideo. I stock up when it is three for $1.00.
For the best flavor, you'll want to use quality saffron, Spanish dry-cured chorizo and smoked paprika/pimentón, and homemade stock. Note: Smoked paprika comes in dulce (sweet/mild), agridulce (bittersweet/medium-hot), and picante (hot).
I love the layered textures and flavors in fideuà - the soft, toasty pasta on the bottom soaked in the smoky broth and the crispy-chewy top flavored with briny seafood.
Fideuà Mixta
Ingredients
Approximately 2 cups of chicken or seafood stock (I like to use homemade lobster stock) - amount depends on the width of pasta used
2 lobster tails
1 pound of clams or mussels
6 large shrimp
1-2 links of Spanish chorizo (about 5 oz), cut into 1/2-inch slices
4 tablespoons of extra-virgin Spanish olive oil
1 7-oz package of fideo pasta
1 medium onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup dry Spanish white wine such as Albariño (optional)
1-1/2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped or one 14-oz can of fire-roasted diced tomatoes
1 teaspoon of smoked paprika
1/8 teaspoon saffron
Optional garnishes: Chopped parsley; allioli/Spanish aioli (storebought or homemade); aceite de ajo y perejil/garlic-parsley oil (recipe here)
1. Peel shrimp, scrub clams, and split lobster tails in half lengthwise. Chill until needed.
2. Preheat oven to 400.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy skillet over medium-low heat and cook onion and garlic with bay leaf until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high and add wine. When evaporated, add smoked paprika and tomatoes. Simmer, stirring frequently, until mixture is thick, about 20 minutes. Remove bay leaf, and set aside.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a paella pan or an ovenproof 12-inch shallow skillet over medium heat. Add sliced chorizo and saute for 30 seconds to render slightly and color oil. Add pasta and cook for 2-3 minutes until coated in oil and golden brown, stirring frequently to avoid burning.
5. Add half of the tomato mixture (the rest of the sofregit can be used to season other dishes, but I usually freeze for the next time I make fideuà), stock, and crumbled saffron. Raise heat and simmer covered for five minutes. Stir, taste, and season with salt and pepper. You may wish to add more saffron and/or smoked paprika.
6. Nestle seafood into pasta bed. Place clams hinge-side down and lobster cut sides up. Transfer to oven and bake uncovered until seafood is cooked, liquid is absorbed and top of pasta is crisp, 10-20 minutes. You may need to add more liquid.
7. Optional: Garnish with smoked paprika sea salt, Espelette pepper, and aceite de ajo y perejil parsley oil (recipe here).
Tips:
I've made this with just shrimp, with chicken and chorizo, and vegetarian (try artichokes, piquillo peppers and mushrooms).
To serve 6, use a larger pan and double the pasta, seafood, and stock (use the full amount of tomato mixture instead of half).
Do-ahead: I make the stock weeks earlier and freeze, toast the pasta earlier in the day, and prep the tomato mixture and garlic-parsley oil 1-3 days ahead. The garlic-parsley oil can be used for easy pre-dinner tapas such as tossed with mushrooms, shrimp, or chicken wings.
For a dinner party, I place the pan in the middle of the table and let guests serve themselves. At home, my husband prefers the seafood taken out of its shell and tossed with the pasta and a little allioli.
If some seafood is cooked through before others, simply remove and tent with foil. Replace for presentation, or toss with pasta when serving. Note: Because these clams were larger, I added them to the pan during step 2.
If pasta seems dry, add more liquid. If too wet, simply cook longer, removing seafood if needed, and returning to pan to serve.
If you want a more authentic soccarat (crispy crust on the bottom) finish the dish on the stove briefly over high heat.
Fideua mixta with homemade allioli (recipe to post next week)
Olive oil and chorizo were provided by Fry's #TastofSpain for inspiration. See a previous recipe for Mushrooms with Sherry and Salsa Verde and tapas ideas here.
PHOENIX COOKS COOKBOOK: Glai Baan's Eggplant Salad
Phoenix Cooks photo shoot
Part of my new Phoenix Cooks Recipes tips series, this is where I share dishes I’ve made from my Phoenix Cooks cookbook, along with ingredient notes, my substitutions or tweaks, and photo shoot pictures. Complete recipes can be found in my book. or linked if shared by the publisher. Currently I have two entries; but to see the whole series, go to “Phoenix Cooks Recipes” here or at the bottom of the page.
Glai Baan: Thai Eggplant Salad, page 112.
If I find good Asian-style eggplants (slender and thin-skinned), or have a nice harvest, this is one of my go-to recipes. Soft, buttery eggplant is topped with a sweet-tangy-spicy dressing and a tumble of tender shrimp, ground pork, and crispy shallot rings - so addictive! It’s just as delicious served warm or at room temperature, and most of the components can be done ahead of time for a quick weekday lunch or dinner.
INGREDIENT NOTES: Ingredients include ground pork, shrimp, an egg, eggplant, shallots, limes, scallions, cilantro, Thai chiles, palm sugar, and fish sauce. All the ingredients can be found in your local grocery store except for palm sugar, which can be purchased on-line or at the Asian market. A common substitute is brown sugar, though the taste will be slightly different as brown sugar is commonly sweetened with molasses.
Dressing ingredients
RECIPE NOTES:
1. Frying the sliced shallots: I double this amount as the crispy shallots are a great garnish for other dishes including rice and salads. I fry them ahead, allow to drain and cool completely, and store in a glass jar. And save the shallot-flavored oil! It’s great for sauteing.
2. Cooking the ground pork and shrimp, and boiling the egg: I also do this a day or two ahead and store in the refrigerator.
3. Mixing the dressing: Make sure you double the amount - trust me! - because it is just so good.
4. Cooking the eggplant: Grilling as the recipe says adds such a great smoky flavor, but to simplify, I often pan-fry. I cut the unpeeled eggplant into approximately 1-inch slices and saute in the leftover shallot oil. If you cooked the pork and shrimp ahead of time, let them marinate in the dressing while you cook the eggplant..
5. The final step is composing your plate and garnishing.
Garnished with quail eggs and Thai basil from the garden.
If you make the dish, I’d love it if you comment below, or if you post on Instagram, be sure to tag me at @writeonrubee and @phoenixcooks!
Beverage expert Max Berlin and owners Chef Pornsupak “Cat” Bunnag and Dan Robinson of Glai Baan
Taiwanese Turkey Rice
Turkey dinner was on this past weekend’s Sunday football menu, but since I already had a freezer full of turkey pot pie and soup, I was looking for something different for leftovers.
I thought of turkey enchiladas, turkey manicotti, or turkey tetrazzini, but decided to roam the web for something with Asian flavors and this Serious Eats recipe turned out to be a winner. This time I had cooked the bird breast-side down, so it was especially moist and perfect for shredding. The recipe is based on a popular street food dish in Taiwan and features tender chunks of turkey moistened with a sauce of turkey jus and soy that is fragrant with Sichuan peppercorns and enriched with rendered turkey fat.
Sichuan peppercorns (look for packages that are mainly husks as the dark black seeds are hard and gritty)
You’ll want to set aside some turkey drippings just to make this (and next time I’ll also save some crispy skin as a garnish).
Serves 2-4
Ingredients:
2 cups of shredded turkey meat
3-4 tablespoons of turkey fat from drippings
1/2 cup of turkey juices from drippings
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
Salt and ground white pepper
1 tablespoon of whole Sichuan peppercorns
Fried shallots and cilantro, for garnish
Directions:
Combine turkey fat and and juices in a medium pot. Add water, sugar, soy sauce, Sichuan peppercorns, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and white pepper. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Simmer uncovered until sauce is reduced by half and strain into a bowl (I also like to add a splash of Chinese black vinegar).
To serve, top rice with shredded turkey meat, and spoon a generous amount of sauce over both. Garnish with fried shallots and cilantro (I didn’t have cilantro, so garnished with homegrown I’itoi’s onions).
Detailed recipe link here: https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2013/11/taiwan-eats-turkey-rice-with-or-without-leftovers-recipe.html
Disneyland Grilled Cheese
I’ll let this cool a bit next time!
This recipe recently popped up on my YouTube feed, and its ooey-gooey cheesy goodness was too enticing not to try. The Disney team shared it to celebrate National Grilled Cheese Day on April 12, and it’s now going into my regular repertoire. At Woody’s Lunch Box at Disney’s Hollywood Studios, it’s served on sourdough, although I used artisan white bread.
What makes this sandwich so uniquely popular? Provolone and cheddar encase a bonus layer of cheddar cream cheese filling, and the bread is toasted with a coat of garlicky mayo instead of butter.
Excuse the pictures - I didn’t plan on posting but wanted to make sure I don’t forget this one! I’ll post clearer pictures as I continue to make this, next time with a big bowl of tomato soup to cut the richness.
The recipe can be found here: Disney’s grilled cheese sandwich from Toy Story Land.
Some tips:
Measurements aren’t given for the amount of mayo or cream cheese filling to spread, and I’ve seen people slather on thick layers. I recommend a nice, thin, even layer of the mayo, just enough to coat the bread, and about a quarter-inch thick layer of cream cheese. Too much and the sandwich will be messy and goopy.
Next time I’ll wait for the sandwich to cool about 3-4 minutes before cutting so the cheese doesn’t ooze out as in the photo.
Be sure to mince the garlic well; you don’t want big chunks. I minced mine with a little salt into a paste.
Let me know what you think!
PHOENIX COOKS COOKBOOK: Pomo Pizzeria's Strozzapreti alla Salsiccia
Picture from Phoenix Cooks by Figure 1 Publishing, photo by Joanie Simon
Although the book launch of my Phoenix Cooks cookbook isn’t until the summer, PHOENIX Magazine has shared a sneak peek. Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana’s strozzapreti alla salsiccia is a fan favorite and outsells every other pasta dish on the menu, and now you can make it at home! Get all the details on Recipe Friday at Desert Dish: www.phoenixmag.com/2020/03/20/recipe-friday-the-strozzapreti-alla-salsiccia-from-pomo-pizzeria/
The secret is in the long simmer which imbues the sauce with a rich depth of flavor, so be sure to allow plenty of time. At the restaurant, fresh strozzapreti is made daily, although you can substitute with other short pasta shapes if you don’t have strozzapreti. At home, I’ve made it with mini-penne and campanelle:
Here’s a glimpse of the photo shoot with restauranteur Stefano Fabbri of Pomo and chef Junior Ramirez, photographer Joanie Simon and food stylist Ellen Straine.
CHULA SEAFOOD: Pacific Sheepshead Francese
Chicken or veal Francese (or Française) is widely believed to be an Italian-American dish born in New York. Cutlets or scallopine are dredged in flour, dipped in an egg batter, and sautéed until golden. It’s a prep that I think is just as delicious with white fish, and I’ve made it using thinner fillets such as sole, or thicker cuts such as halibut. The egg coating becomes velvety as it soaks up the sauce, and the fish stays tender and moist. Although the traditional way to serve is with a lemon-butter and white wine sauce, we love capers in this household so I always add a generous spoonful or two. Tip: I prefer capers preserved in salt - I find the delicate flower buds have more flavor and texture than those in brine.
As I mentioned in my Chile-Spiced Swordfish Sandwich recipe here, I’m working with Chula Seafood, and, this time, they provided me with an opportunity to cook with something I had never seen before - California sheepshead (or sheephead). Not to be confused with Florida sheepshead, a different type of fish, this is a Pacific Ocean fish found off the coast of California and Baja, Mexico. I found cooking it just until it starts to flake was the perfect texture for this sweet and mild fish. “Now THIS is the kind of fish I love,” said my husband. For this recipe serving two, I divided an 11-oz fillet in half.
This recipe is based on the Haddock Margarita at Italian Express Pizzeria in East Boston featured on Guy’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. I lived in Boston before moving to Arizona and spent a lot of time visiting these neighborhood Italian restaurants, so for me it’s a taste of home. Though Chef Iannuzzi serves it with roasted potatoes, we find the buttery, lemony sauce is delicious swirled into a side of creamy mashed potatoes.
INGREDIENTS:
3 Tbsp butter
1/2 cup chicken stock (broth can be substituted, though sauce will be thinner)
1/2 cup white wine
2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice (more to taste)
2-4 lemon slices for garnish
11-2 Tbsp salted capers, soaked and drained
2 5-6 oz fillets of Pacific sheepshead (or other white fish such as sole, flounder, or cod)
1/4 cup of flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
In a saute pan, melt 1 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add chicken stock, wine and lemon juice. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer the sauce until reduced by half. Keep warm.
While sauce is reducing, heat another saute pan over medium-high heat. Add enough olive to coat the bottom of the pan.
Pat each fillet dry and season with salt and pepper. Dredge the fish on both sides in the flour, tapping off excess. Gently dip into the egg wash to coat completely, letting the excess drip off. Place into the hot saute pan, being careful of splatter. Cook the fish for approximately 2 minutes on each side, depending on thickness, or until golden brown and middle has turned from pink to white. Fish may start to flake, so flip with a wide spatula. Carefully transfer the fillets to the warm sauce and allow to simmer for 2 minutes, basting with a spoon. Remove sauce from heat.
Transfer fish to plates, and garnish with lemon slices. Swirl the remaining butter into the sauce until creamy and thickened. Spoon over fish and serve.
CHULA SEAFOOD: Chile-Spiced Swordfish Sandwiches with Pickled Jalapeño Tartar Sauce
I’m excited to be collaborating with Chula Seafood, my favorite fish market, in sharing my own seafood recipes along with recipes from my favorite cookbooks. Throughout the year, they’ll supply the ingredients, and I’ll be stepping up my home cooking! Both award-winning locations (Scottsdale and Phoenix) offer seafood, smoked fish, cooked dishes, daily specials, and party platters.
Chula Uptown in Phoenix
The original Scottsdale location opened its doors in 2015, and partners Jon and Mandy Heflin (their swordfish boat, CHULA, is docked in San Diego) and Hogan Jamison, along with head chef Juan Zamora, have racked up a slew of local awards (Best New Restaurant, Best Seafood Restaurant, Best Fish Taco) and national nods (Food Networks Best Restaurants in Phoenix). And stay tuned! Chef Juan has contributed two recipes to my upcoming Phoenix Cooks book, so you’ll be able to make specialties like his amazing cured pink grouper with guacamole aguachile and Peruvian corn for yourself. (check out this link for some behind-the-scene shots).
Chile-Spiced Swordfish Sandwiches with Pickled Jalapeño Tartar Sauce
Serves 2
For this sandwich inspired by the flavors of the Southwest, I layered chili powder-spiced swordfish steaks with creamy avocado and a mayonnaise seasoned with pickled jalapeños and fresh cilantro. The rub is a simple blend of a little smoked paprika added to your favorite store-bought chili powder or your homemade blend - I use a mix of dried ancho chili pepper, cumin, garlic, salt, pepper, thyme and Mexican oregano.
You’ll also want to pick up a rustic loaf of locally-baked bread, such as the Mediterra Bakehouse red fife levain I used here picked up at LGO Grocery (made with heritage red fife grain grown in Coolidge, Arizona).Tip: Griddling both sides of the bread instead of toasting keeps the buttery slices crispy when slathered with the mayonnaise spread.
Pickled Jalapeño Tartar Sauce
1/2 cup of mayonnaise
1/4 tsp of onion powder
1 Tbsp of minced pickled jalapeños
1 Tbsp finely chopped cilantro
Combine all ingredients and set aside.
Swordfish Sandwiches
Two 1/2-inch-thick Chula Seafood swordfish steaks
1 Tbsp of chili powder mixed with 1/2 tsp of smoked paprika (or more to taste)
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
4 slices of rustic bread
Softened butter
One avocado, sliced
1 lime
Salt and pepper
Remove swordfish steaks from the refrigerator 10-15 minutes before cooking (a cold piece of fish will not cook as evenly).
Heat a skillet over medium heat. Spread butter on each side of bread slices. Place bread in pan and griddle for 1 to 2 minutes, flipping once, until both sides are toasted and golden brown. Set aside.
Wipe out skillet and heat vegetable oil over medium-high heat (alternatively, swordfish steaks can be broiled or grilled). Pat fish dry. If your chili powder blend is salt-free, season with salt and pepper on both sides. Sprinkle each side evenly with 1/2 to 3/4 of a teaspoon of the chili powder blend.
Place in hot pan and cook for approximately 1-2 minutes per side (or until the middle just turns opaque).
To make each sandwich, spread tartar sauce on 2 pieces of toasted bread and place a piece of fish on top of each. Top fish with a squeeze of fresh lime juice. Spread tartar sauce on remaining slices of bread, fan avocado slices on top and sprinkle with flakey sea salt. Assemble, and serve.
David Eyre's Pancake
This recipe is from one of my favorite cookbooks, The Essential New York Times Cookbook by Amanda Hesser, an updated compilation of popular NYT recipes. In 1966, Craig Claiborne wrote of enjoying it at the home of a David Eyre in Honolulu, who found the recipe in a 1919 edition of the St. Francis Hotel Cookbook.
Similar to a Dutch Baby or German pancake, the beauty of this is its simplicity. Flour, milk, eggs, and a little freshly grated nutmeg are mixed together (I also add a dash of salt), poured into a cast-iron pan sizzling with butter, and baked for 15-20 minutes. With my oven, I find 16 minutes is perfect. The recipe says "not quite a pancake and not quite a crepe" and that's a perfect description. Once you pull it out all puffed and crispy-edged, dust with powdered sugar and sprinkle with a little lemon juice as it deflates. I like to serve it with fresh fruit, jam, maple syrup or, as I did this afternoon for Saturday brunch, with a drizzle of honey. Serves 1-2.
Ingredients
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole milk
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Pinch of nutmeg
3-4 tablespoons of unsalted butter
Confectioner’s/powdered sugar
Half a lemon
Instructions
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Mix flour, milk, eggs, and nutmeg in a bowl, but leave the batter a bit lumpy. Melt the butter over medium-high heat in a 12-inch cast iron skillet and when it is hot, pour in the batter. Don’t worry if the batter doesn’t spread to the edges of the skillet, it will spread and puff up as it bakes. Transfer to the oven and bake for 15-20 minutes, until the pancake is puffed and golden. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, top with a squeeze of lemon, and cut into wedges to serve.
Note: You can double this recipe, using the same amount of butter and cooking approximately an additional 10 minutes (decreasing the temp to 350 for those last 10). It results in a thicker, more eggy pancake, which my husband likes with syrup. I prefer mine more crepe-like.
Bringing New England Seafood Flavor to our Arizona Home
Fried clam and lobster rolls
As a native New Englander, I grew up in Massachusetts surrounded by ocean activities - spending summer days at the beach (Wingaersheek, Good Harbor, Old Orchard, Hampton, Nantasket), rafting our boats at Misery Island on the North Shore, lobster picnics at Chauncey Creek Pier, dining on fresh-from-the-ocean seafood steps from a dock in Nantucket, clamming on Martha’s Vineyard, and feasting at lobster pounds in Bar Harbor. Even living in our downtown condo at Harbor Towers on Boston’s waterfront, we were still spoiled - the lobster tanks at James Hook’s Lobster Company were a 5-minute stroll from our front door. Lobster rolls and oysters at Neptune in Boston’s North End, stuffed quahogs in Menemsha on The Vineyard, steamers at cookouts in Essex, fried scallops in Ogunquit, fish and chips on The Cape, and fried clams in Ipswich…so many delicious memories.
Fried scallops
As seen in these pictures, now we’ve brought that New England flavor here to Arizona to remind us of home Back East. Since my parents moved from Massachusetts to join me in Phoenix, dad has introduced a new tradition. One thing he really missed were good New England fried clams, those crispy oceanic bites made from soft-shelled steamer clams native to the Northeast.
After ordering fresh clams from Woodman’s of Essex (home to the original New England fried clam) a couple of years ago, he was hooked. Twice a year - every Memorial Day and Labor Day - he orders a Chubby’s Fried Clam Kit delivered to our door, and I do the cooking.
Fresh steamer clams are delivered pre-shucked in vacuum-sealed packages, along with evaporated milk for soaking, a corn flour batter mixture, tartar sauce, clam boxes, and cooking instructions (I use a deep fryer set at 350 degrees - 60 seconds for clams, 3 minutes for scallops). Thanks for making it easy dad!
We’re often joined by our good friends Bill (a fellow MA native) and Lill of AZ Bitters Lab. Avid wine collectors, they always make sure we have perfect bottles to pair…
…and also contribute their own platter of seafood goodies, such as lobster rolls with lobster shipped in from Boston’s J. Hook’s.
And sometimes Clams Casino added to their J. Hook’s order.
Thanks to our wonderful family and friends, we look forward to gathering together every spring and fall for a taste of home.
Potato Gratin with White Cheddar, Thyme, and Rosemary
This is my favorite au gratin potatoes recipe and my side dish of choice to serve with baked ham. It's rich, creamy, and cheesy and always a hit with our guests.
With a food processor to shred the cheese and slice the potatoes, it's pretty easy to put together. The potatoes and cheese are layered and a mixture of heavy cream, shallots, herbs, and salt and pepper poured over before finishing with a little more cheese and popping in the oven.
Just remember to allow for plenty of time - an hour covered, 30 minutes to brown, and 10 minutes to cool. I wouldn't suggest substituting the heavy cream with something lighter as it absorbs differently and can be more liquidy (and it just isn't as good!). This is adapted from a recipe from an Arizona restaurant called Steamers Genuine Seafood (now closed). It serves 8-10.
INGREDIENTS
2 cups of heavy cream
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1 teaspoon of finely chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons of chopped fresh thyme leaves
2-1/2 teaspoons of salt (I like to use Penzey's shallot salt)
3/4 teaspoon black pepper
4 pounds of russet potatoes, peeled
2 cups packed grated sharp white cheddar cheese (about 8 oz - I like the big blocks of Tillamook cheddar)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Preheat oven to 375°F. Brush a 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking dish with softened butter.
Whisk cream, shallots, herbs, salt and pepper together.
Peel potatoes (as you go, immerse them in water to prevent browning). Drain and slice thinly, about a quarter inch thick. I use a mandoline or food processor.
Layer half of the potatoes in the dish. Season with salt and pepper, and cover with 1 cup of cheese.
Add the rest of the potatoes. Pour cream mixture over the potatoes.
Season with salt and pepper and top with the rest of the cheese.
Cover with foil and bake for 1 hour.
Uncover (it will look soupy). Bake for 30-45 minutes more or until potatoes are tender and the gratin is golden brown and bubbling. If there seems to be too much liquid, bake until the cream is absorbed.
Cool for 10 minutes before cutting into squares and serving. I like to finish with black truffle salt from AZ's GoLbSalt.
I’ve served this with baked ham, grilled steaks, beef wellington, roast chicken, and ribs. Tip: It makes a great dish for a buffet brunch too.
Meyer Lemon and Thyme Shortbread Cookies
Buttery, crumbly, melt-in-your-mouth shortbread. I've started making double batches of these addictive cookies since we find ourselves reaching for another...and then another. My Meyer lemon tree produces an abundant crop October through January and these treats are the perfect vehicle for the tender, fragrant zest. Lemon thyme from the garden provides a lovely herbal counterpoint.
The basis for this is Dorie Greenspan's technique for shortbread from Baking From My Home To Yours (my favorite baking book!) with my tweaks. The recipe is pretty simple, especially with a Kitchenaid mixer, but remember to allow time for chilling the dough before baking.
Ingredients
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup powdered/confectioners sugar, measured after sifting
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large egg yolks at room temperature
1 teaspoon of fresh thyme leaves
Zest from one large Meyer lemon (I use a microplane)
2 cups all-purpose flour
Instructions
Rub half the zest with your fingers into the sugar in a small bowl and set aside.
With the paddle attachment (or using a hand mixer), beat the butter at medium speed until it is smooth and creamy. Add both sugars and salt and continue to beat one minute more. You don't want to beat air into it to make it fluffy, but want it nice and creamy.
Reduce to low and beat in the egg yolks until blended.
Add flour, thyme, and the remainder of the zest and briefly pulse your mixer about 5 times at low speed (drape with a towel to prevent the flour from escaping the mixer). If you still see flour on the surface of the dough, pulse a couple of more times. You want to mix just enough to incorporate the flour into the dough. It should be a uniform, clumpy, soft dough.
Scrape it out onto a floured surface, pat it into a ball, and divide in half. Gently flatten each piece into a oblong shape about an inch thick and chill for at least 2 hours. You can also freeze for a later time.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees when ready to bake and line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.
Remove dough from the refrigerator about 7-10 minutes before rolling, just so the dough softens enough to be slightly pliable. Roll out to 1/4-inch thick and cut out shapes with a biscuit or cookie cutter.
Place one inch apart on the prepared sheet and bake for about 15-17 minutes, rotating halfway through. They should be pale on top and golden brown around the edges. Note: In my convection oven at 350 degrees, they are done at 11-12 minutes.
Cool cookies for 1-2 minutes before transferring with a spatula to a cooling rack.
Tips:
Butter with a higher butterfat percentage (which also means less water) = better cookies. I often use Plugra, but for this batch used Tillamook.
I like to grate the zest over the bowl of sugar to capture the spray of the citrus oils.
Remember to allow time for the egg yolks and butter to come to room temperature.
If the cookies soften too much after cutting, put them on the prepared pan and chill for 5 minutes before going into the oven. You want them to be cold when they go in the oven or they can spread.
You can also roll the dough into two logs and chill (or freeze). Before slicing, brush with beaten egg yolk and roll in coarse or sanding sugar. These were rolled in demerara/turbinado sugar:
Please comment below or share on Twitter/Instagram with tag of @WriteOnRubee if you make them - would love to see yours!
Roasted Asparagus with Guajillo Crema
I love partnering with the wonderful folks of Fry's Food Stores in the kitchen. It's the local grocery store where I do my food shopping, and also a generous sponsor of local events, including one of Phoenix's best food festivals and chef's competitions, Dish it Out. You can find past collaboration recipes such as my Baked Stuffed Lumaconi or Fideuà Mixta, a Spanish seafood dish with fideo pasta, here. My latest assignment called for exploring their bilingual website, Fry's Tu Mesa (Your Table), and trying one of the dishes from their Recipe Archives, "a place full of imagination and mucho sabor." Each recipe is made even easier with helpful videos and a grocery shopping list tool.
Guajillo crema
Scrolling through, I realized I had everything I needed to make the Asparagus with Queso Fresco - link here. The recipe calls for easy-to-find ingredients that were already in my refrigerator and pantry: Asparagus, sour cream, limes, olive oil, queso fresco (a fresh Mexican cheesea), and Adobo, a Latin seasoning of cumin, garlic, and black pepper. I like a bit of heat in my Mexican cooking, so added some guajillo chile paste. Since they keep well, I always have a selection of dried chiles in my pantry. Here, I toasted two guajillo chiles briefly in a dry pan and then soaked in warm water for half an hour to soften. I pureed one to add to the sauce, and used the other as a garnish.
Gujaillo chiles (dried Mirasol peppers)
The crema is a versatile condiment which can be used thick as a dip, or thinned for a sauce. Some other ideas:
- Pick up a can of chipotles in adobo sauce at Fry's and add a spoonful to taste for a spicier, smokier flavor.
- Slather the crema on corn on the cob and then roll in cotija cheese for a delicous rendition of Mexican street corn.
- Use it as a dipping sauce for chicken wings or grilled shrimp.
- Try it on fish tacos.
- Toss with cubed roasted or boiled potatoes for a tasty potato salad.
The crema can be made ahead and the asparagus can be roasted and served at room temperature, making this a perfect do-ahead side dish for entertaining or bringing to a summer potluck, BBQ, or picnic. To finish the dish, spoon the crema over the roasted asparagus and garnish with crumbles of queso fresco and thinly-sliced guajillo chiles.
¡Buen provecho!
This post was sponsored by Fry's Food Stores
Jeremiah Tower's Grilled Garlic and Ancho Chili Sauce
Earlier this month, I was invited to attend an advance screening of the culinary film, "Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent," and absolutely loved it. It's a fascinating, powerful and moving documentary about legendary chef Jeremiah Tower. Produced by Anthony Bourdain, it opens today, Friday, May 19th at Harkins Shea 14, and is a can't-miss film.
When I was asked if I would like to share one of his recipes here on the website, well, of course! I've always been a fan of this enigmatic talent and, after seeing the film, even more so.
The sauce is made with ancho chile, a smoked and dried poblano pepper that lends a mild raisin-y sweetness and fruity heat. Soaked and reconstituted, anchos are puréed into a sauce seasoned with fresh herbs, mellow roasted garlic and tangy lime, and enriched with butter and olive oil.
It's a versatile and complex condiment layered with flavor that can be used to inspire any number of dishes. So far, I've used this delicious sauce to brush on cod for fish tacos, as a glaze for a juicy roast chicken and potatoes, and combined with crema for potato salad. Chef Towers himself personally shared a handy tip with me - "It's fabulous mixed with sour cream and mayo for grilled meats, fish, and chicken." Thank you Chef!
Jeremiah Tower's Grilled Garlic and Ancho Chili Sauce
INGREDIENTS:
2 dried ancho chili pods
1 head fresh spring first-crop garlic
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
1/2 cup mild extra-virgin olive oil
1 ripe lime, zested and juiced
1/2 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves, chopped
4 ounces unsalted butter, softened
Salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
Grill the chilies over a charcoal, wood, or low gas flame until they puff up, or about 3 minutes. Put them in a bowl with enough warm water to cover them. Weight them down with a small saucer, and soak for 2 hours. Drain, saving the water, and remove and discard the stems and seeds.
Meanwhile, wrap the head of garlic loosely in foil with the thyme and a tablespoon of the olive oil. Cook over low fire or under a broiler until the garlic is tender, or about 20 minutes. Remove the stem and rough outer layers of the skin and discard. Put all the cloves in a food processor and puree the garlic with the remaining olive oil. Pass through a sieve and discard the residue.
Puree the chiles with just enough of their soaking water to make a smooth puree. Sieve. Clean out the food processor.
Put the garlic and chili purees in the processor with the lime zest and juice, oregano, butter, and a teaspoon of salt. Puree until soft and smooth. Add more salt if necessary.
Serves 4-6. Tip: If making ahead of time, bring to room temperature to allow butter in sauce to soften.
Entertaining at Home with an Antipasti Platter
This is a sponsored post in partnership with Fry’s Food Stores
As someone who loves to graze, a favorite way to dine and entertain is with cheese and charcuterie, or an antipasti platter. Thanks to Fry's and their Taste of Italy campaign, this week was the perfect opportunity. For two weeks this September, Fry's introduced authentic ingredients imported from Italy, and I received a complimentary gift basket for inspiration. This antipasti platter was a perfect al fresco meal to enjoy with my parents on a beautiful autumn afternoon.
Colorful fingerling potatoes were coated with extra virgin olive oil and seasoned with homemade herb salt, and fresh thyme. I left them whole, but they could also be halved. Roast at 425°F, turning occasionally until tender, about 25 minutes. Toss with jarred Ascheri Basil Pesto made with Genovese basil and imported from Liguria, fresh cracked black pepper, and a squeeze of fresh lemon.
For a traditional Italian snack serve a bowl of olives and lupini beans. Peel the clear membrane from the lupini beans and toss with Cerignola olives, extra virgin olive oil, and fresh herbs.
I stocked up on imported sliced meats this week, including HemisFares Italian Mountain Speck (a Northern Italian dry-cured, smoked ham) and salame di parma, and added roasted peppers and artichokes to my antipasti selection.
To serve, I lined a large platter with lettuce from my garden and added pepperoni-stuffed mushrooms (check back for that recipe), blanched green beans in an Italian vinaigrette topped with shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, a salad of buffala mozzarella and homegrown tomatoes, and sliced Asiago cheese.
Keep up to date on Fry's Taste of Italy campaign here to stock up on pantry items, cheese, meats, pastas, and other imported Italian ingredients only available during this limited time period.
Buon Appetito!
Baked Lumaconi with Three Cheese and Sausage Filling
Baked stuffed pasta takes many forms, with manicotti and stuffed shells the most familiar dishes to grace our table as I was growing up. This month, Fry's food Stores Taste of Italy campaign brought in special ingredients imported from Italy, and I received a bag of lumaconi pasta in my complimentary gift basket. We have family visiting from Austin, Texas and a baking tray of stuffed lumaconi smothered in tomato sauce and blanketed with melted mozzarella and a sprinkle of parmesan was the perfect dish for this week's Sunday Supper.
Lumaconi takes its name from its resemblance to snail shells (lumache is Italian for snail).
The highest-quality dried pasta is extruded through bronze dies, which imparts a rough, ridged texture, enabling flavorful sauces to cling to the surface. Contrast that with the slick, smooth surface of cheaper mass-produced pastas. I'll be stocking up on this pasta before Fry's event ends on the 27th.
Lumaconi Stuffed with Three Cheese and Sausage Filling
Ingredients:
One 10.5 oz package of Hemisfares lumaconi pasta
One pound of sausage removed from its casing
1 medium onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups of whole milk ricotta cheese
2-1/2 cups of shredded mozzarella cheese
3/4 cup of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon of dried oregano
1/4 cup of chopped parsley
1 tablespoon of fresh basil, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
3-4 cups of your favorite marinara
Directions:
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta shells and cook to slightly before al dente (about 11 minutes). Drain and cool in cold water. Drain, toss with olive oil and set aside.
- Over medium heat, saute onion until soft, add garlic and saute for 30 seconds or until fragrant, and then add sausage. Cook sausage until browned over medium-high heat, breaking up into small chunks. Drain and set aside.
- In a bowl, combine ricotta, eggs, 1-1/2 cups of mozzarella, 1/2 cup of parmesan cheese, sausage mixture, parsley, and oregano.
- Coat the bottom of a 9x13 inch pan with a thin layer of marinara. Spoon stuffing mixture into the lumaconi and nestle the stuffed pasta in the pan. Coat each lumaconi with marinara and then top with 1 cup of shredded mozzarella, and 1/4 cup of freshly-grated parmesan.
- Bake at 375 for approximately 30 minutes or until browned.
Notes:
- I always have an abundance of green onion growing in my garden so added 1/2 cup of chopped I'itoi's onions and garlic chives to the sausage mixture.
- Cooking the pasta to just slightly firm makes it easier to stuff.
- You can also bake pasta covered with foil until bubbly, remove, and turn heat to 425 for 5-10 minutes to brown.
- Instead of dried oregano, I seasoned with my homemade herb salt.
I received the pasta from Fry's Food Stores in a complimentary gift basket for Taste of Italy cooking inspiration. The other ingredients were purchased from Fry's.
Cooking Italian with Fry's Taste of Italy
This post is sponsored by Fry’s Food Stores
As someone who loves to cook as much as I enjoy dining out, receiving a basket of ingredients for meal inspiration is the perfect gift. Thanks to Fry's and their Taste of Italy campaign, I'll be cooking a lot of Italian in the coming weeks. From September 17 through the 28th, Fry’s is carrying authentic ingredients imported from Italy, designed to inspire their customers to explore Italian cuisine in their homes.
My cornucopia of Italian ingredients included penne rigate and lumaconi pasta, balsamic vinegar, roasted peppers, Amarena cherries, leek and tomato pasta sauce, red and green pesto, wine (Chianti and Pino Grigio), roasted peppers, pear sauce, grissini, rosemary crostini, cheese crackers, and recipe cards.
I also did some shopping to supplement, buying cheese, salame, speck, ravioli, tiramisu ingredients, and more.
So far, I've made steamed clams with leek and tomato broth accompanied by rosemary and olive oil bread (above) for dunking, and an antiplasti platter for family who flew in last night. On the agenda is baked stuffed lumaconi, mushroom ravioli with gorgonzola cream sauce, homemade pasta with ndjua pasta sauce, panna cotta with Amarena cherries, and tiramisu. Check back this week for recipes.
For my participation in Fry's Taste of Spain event, visit this link:
Mushroom Marsala and Taleggio Pizza
Although I love to cook, pizza has never been a mainstay in my repertoire. Not because I don't love a cheesy pie, but because of the high temps required. I've made some good pizzas on the grill and in my oven but I really need that nicely charred, blistered, puffy crust which, to me, can only be obtained in a hot pizza oven.
Well, I've finally entered the world of obsessive pizza-making, all thanks to this beauty sent to me from the fine folks of BakerStone Pizza Oven Box. Designed to be used on a grill, the stone baking chamber heats up to 700+ degrees. On my four-burner Char-Broil Infrared Grill, it takes about 25 minutes to pre-heat. As our Arizona days become cooler, I'll be making pizzas weekly, but so far this summer I've had winners with a Bianco-inspired pie, pepperoni, and, last week, mushroom with taleggio cheese - recipe below.
Mushroom Marsala and Taleggio Pizza
One ball of pizza dough (recipe here)
16 ounces of mushrooms (I used portabello and fresh shiitake)
1/2 pound of grated Taleggio cheese
1/4 cup of dry marsala wine
2 Tablespoons of minced chives or green onions (I used I'itoi's onions from my garden)
One large shallot, thinly sliced
2 tsp of fresh thyme
2 minced garlic cloves
Extra virgin olive oil
- Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat.
- Add mushrooms, garlic, and shallot. Sauté 4 minutes.
- Add marsala wine and simmer until the liquid is absorbed.
- Add fresh thyme and chives/onions. Season with salt and pepper.
- Cover rolled out pizza dough with cheese. Scatter mushroom mixture evenly on top.
Final step: Allow the magic to happen in your BakerStone Pizza Oven. At these temperatures, my pizzas cook in about 4 minutes (see video below).
I can't recommend this highly enough - The Bakerstone Basics Pizza Oven Box Kit is now on sale at Sam's Club. It's the same kit I received, which includes a wooden pizza peel and pizza turner/spatula.
I received a complimentary pizza oven kit and this post has been sponsored by BakerStone Pizza Ovens.
Napoletana-Style Pizza Dough
I recently received a delivery of a new favorite culinary tool - the BakerStone Pizza Oven Box. I just LOVE this brilliant idea and I've finally achieved a pizza crust that makes me happy. Heating it up on the grill results in a stone baking chamber rising to over 700 degrees, turning out bubbling pizza with perfect puffy, chewy crusts.
Of course, a good dough recipe is key here. While I'm still experimenting, my current technique is cold fermentation and a 50:50 ratio of all-purpose flour and "00" flour. For a detailed look at cold fermenting with a slow rise in the refrigerator, check out Serious Eats. This technique means it's also perfect for freezing, and I now keep my freezer stocked. My recipe uses a stand mixer, though it can be mixed and kneaded by hand.
Pizza Napoletana Dough Recipe
250 grams of 00 flour
250 grams all-purpose flor
325 grams of lukewarm water
10 grams of salt
3 grams of active dry yeast
- Add yeast to warm water and let sit for two minutes.
- Add flours and salt to the bowl of stand mixer and use the paddle at low speed to combine.
- Add water and yeast to bowl and mix on medium speed with a dough hook until it comes together and no dry flour remains.
- Increase speed to medium-high and mix until the dough is stretchy and smooth, about 5 minutes. The dough may stick to the bottom of the bowl but will pull away from the sides.
- Form the dough into a large ball, then cut it into three equal pieces.
- Coat three small containers or gallon ziploc bags with olive oil and add one dough ball to container.
- Allow to rise in refrigerator for at least 48 hours. It can also be frozen. If using frozen pizza dough, thaw in refrigerator for at least 48 hours.
- When ready to use, form into a smooth ball with floured hands, loosely cover with plastic wrap, and let rise for 1-1/2 to 2 hours until almost doubled in size.
Notes: I find that measuring by weight yields the best dough. "00" refers to a super-fine grade of milling. I buy it locally from Hayden Flour Mills. While you can use the dough after one night, I find it's best after three to four days, so plan ahead if possible.
BakerStone
I received a complimentary BakerStone Pizza Oven Box from the manufacturer.