Discover Hidden Treasures with Executive Chef Ivan Gonzalez of Chico Malo and Wren & Wolf
In collaboration with WorldClass, whose mission is to discover and share the world’s hidden culinary treasures, I will be spotlighting some of Arizona finest chefs. Traveling the world over, from Argentina to Portugal, WorldClass offers “the unique, the intriguing, the finest quality” ingredients through extensive research and stringent criteria including taste, production methods, and sustainability practices. Meet the discerning chefs who recognize the importance of WorldClass quality in their culinary visions.
It’s a Thursday afternoon in April and I’m chatting with Chef Ivan Gonzalez as he prepares for a busy night at Wren & Wolf in downtown Phoenix. “There’s a game, there’s a concert, there’s a big comedy show,” he tells me as he ticks off a few of the events that contribute to Phoenix’s thriving downtown scene. As executive chef of two acclaimed restaurants – Chico Malo and Wren & Wolf – Gonzalez is in his element.
"Cooking is a passion that I discovered when I was 14 years old,” he tells me. “I was a dishwasher in Texas and I would listen and watch everything - how the kitchen ran, how people moved, how the food was created. I was so curious and knew I wanted to be a part of it. When I was given the opportunity to help out at 14, I felt like I knew how to cook just by watching, and since then, it’s been my life.”
At Chico Malo, which opened in 2017, a bustling patio and colorful dining room reflect a modern, vibrant menu showcasing Gonzalez’s Mexican heritage. In addition to award-winning guacamole and chili verde, you’ll savor dishes like duck breast al pastor with salsa verde and mar y tierra, a surf and turf of juicy WorldClass Argentine filet and garlicky mojo de ajo shrimp accompanied by chorizo mashed potatoes.
For the last eight months, Gonzalez has also been helming the kitchen at nearby Wren & Wolf, Chico Malo’s sibling on the ground floor of Renaissance Square. Here, he crafts a more eclectic menu in a swanky 10,000 square foot space known for its distinctive décor decorated with murals mirroring the taxidermied wolves, foxes, and birds.
“Chico Malo is where people come to relax before or after a game or a concert for a fun time with great food and great drinks,” Gonzalez notes. “And Wren & Wolf is a hidden gem. When you're walking around downtown with construction and everything happening around you, you step into Wren & Wolf and you’re not expecting it to be as beautiful as it is.”
“We have more of a steakhouse menu, with something for everyone - from Lebanese food to Mexican food, from Argentinian WorldClass steaks to lobster.
Which WorldClass ingredients do you use?
At Chico Malo, people come in for the carne asada, and the mar y tierra with Argentine filet. The beef is so flavorful that we just prepare it with salt since it doesn’t need anything else.
How about at Wren & Wolf?
We use WorldClass Spanish jamón Ibérico on the scallops, we have their Argentine ribeye and filet on the menu, and put their caviar on tuna tartare with mole and in caviar bumps. People are excited to come in and try it. It just tastes delicious.
Why do you like working with WorldClass?
The quality of their products is great. Such as their beef - it’s grass fed, very flavorful, very tender. And it’s more than just a working relationship. WorldClass really feels like being a part of the family. They’re always willing to help us out, not only product-wise, but whenever we need them, they’re here for us.
What do you enjoy most about working at the restaurants?
I get to meet great people. Phoenix is a true city with great people; unique and authentic.
What’s in store for the future?
We’ll be opening a raw bar soon, so there will be even more things to come.
For the current catalog of WorldClass products, go to www.worldclass.com/products