SanTan Beer Dinner at Cafe ZuZu

September 28, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

This summer, Cafe ZuZu at the Hotel Valley Ho launched their inaugural Brew Master Series held once a month on a Thursday night. Each dinner features a beer cocktail with passed bites and 3 courses paired with beers from a featured craft beer brewery. On September 17th, I was invited to visit Cafe ZuZu as they hosted SanTan Brewing Company, a local award-winning brewery crafting seasonal and Southwestern-style ales.

We were greeted with a refreshing beer cocktail made with Sunspot Gold, a blonde ale with light hops, combined with Campari, grapefruit juice, and St. Germain elderflower liqueur. A perfect welcome beverage on a sunny Arizona afternoon.

Delicious mini-Reubens and crispy pork belly bites were passed to accompany the cocktail.

We were seated in the colorful mid-century modern atmosphere of Cafe ZuZu as Executive Chef Charles Wiley described his menu and introduced SanTan Brewing Brand Ambassador Erin Garlock. "I love to work with wineries and craft breweries, chefs and beverage professionals that are passionate about what they do," he told us. "We have some great craft breweries right in our own backyard and one of those happen to be in historic downtown Chandler. They opened their doors in 2007 and they helped to really pioneer the whole craft beer movement here in Arizona.”

Erin informed us how this month marks Arizona’s second largest brewery's eight-year anniversary, that SanTan brews fresh Southwestern-style ales, it is the only brewery in Arizona that brews an Oktoberfest, and every October they throw a party in front of the brewery [this year it was October 3rd]. And what makes it Southwestern style? "We ferment our beers to completion, which creates a lighter-bodied beer, what you want in Arizona. We up our carbonation levels just a little bit above US standards so it’s not so heavy - it's quenching, it’s refreshing, it's effervescent."

Mr. Pineapple, SanTan Brewing Company’s most popular seasonal beer, accompanied a flavorful first course of prawns and manila clams in a charred tomato broth with smoky Spanish chorizo. This fruity wheat ale was originally created for the SanTan annual luau, but due to overwhelming demand is now being brewed year round.

Oktoberfest, a malt-forward lager, was an equally winning pairing with a hearty braised beef short rib topped with a slab of melted Shaft's blue cheese and served with crispy shoe-string potatoes tossed with spinach and honey jus.

Dessert paired Devil's Ale, a beer that Erin told us is their "flagship beer that pretty much put SanTan on the map", with a decadent toffee cake with creme anglaise and ice cream. I especially liked how the citrus notes and caramel malt paired with this finale. A fun night was had by all, with excellent pairings that made me a bigger fan of both Cafe ZuZu and SanTan Brewing Company. We had fabulous service from Cali, and it was also nice to chat with Erin Garlock and Meg Hebert of the SanTan team.

Follow the Events Calendar to keep up to date with the 2016 Brew Master Series.

I was hosted by Cafe ZuZu and this dinner was complimentary.

1 Comment 0 Likes

categories / Beer Dinner
tags / Brew Master Series, Cafe ZuZu, Hotel Valley Ho

MEET THE CHEF: Chef Massimo de Francesca of Taggia

September 28, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

What makes Taggia at the Kimpton FireSky Resort stand out among the many excellent Italian restaurants here in Phoenix? Talented Chef Massimo de Francesca. His artful creations blend authentic Italian with a unique creative flair molded by his global culinary background. Attending the Culinary Arts (Italian) Program at George Brown College in Toronto, Canada, Chef de Francesca honed his skills working with renowned French chef Jean Pierre Challe at Toronto's Bouchon Bistro, with Michelin-starred chef Vincenzo Cammerucci at his Cesenatico restaurant Lido-Lido in Italy, and at the Westin Casuarina Resort in Grand Cayman. In 2008, he joined the Kimpton Restaurant Group at Domaso Trattoria Moderna in Arlington, Virginia and then spent 3 years in Manhattan before moving to Scottsdale and his current position as Executive Chef of Taggia.

You’ll find these global influences in Chef Massimo’s bacala fritters which have swiftly become a signature appetizer. “Baccala, or salted cod, is an Italian tradition," he explains. "This is something I grew up with every Christmas, every special occasion. I have it on the menu because for me, every day at work is a special occasion." Instead of the more commonly seen braised or stewed variations, he prepares the baccala as salt cod fritters, a familiar dish from his time cooking on the Caribbean islands. Chef Massimo starts by soaking quality Canadian salted cod before simmering to tenderness in milk. This is then flaked and folded into a batter sweetened with pureed butternut squash steamed with thyme. Each bite reveals a creamy-fluffy interior enveloped in a light crispy shell that melts in your mouth. He takes it a step further by embellishing with chipotle aioli (“a taste of the Southwest”), and disks of hearts of palm. “Hearts of palm has an oceanic flavor, almost briny. We get fresh wild hearts of palm from Costa Rica and poach them in olive oil, water, salt, sugar and a little lemon juice. “ Finally, the dish is finished with a drizzle of lobster oil and strewn with fresh basil leaves. It’s easy to see why this has become a guest favorite, and a personal must-order on my visits.

Another crowd pleaser he tells me is the burrata. "It's a creamy, buttery, fresh mozzarella" (burrata actually means "buttered" in Italian) . At Taggia, Chef Massimo pairs it with grilled batons of onion focaccia and and a warm caponata made with roasted peppers, tomatoes , sweet onion, raisins, and eggplant, simmered to a harmonious melange with Italian tomatoes, basil, vinegar, and sugar. The crispy-chewy bread and sweet-tangy caponata are the perfect partners to the milky burrata.

Calamari is another traditional Italian ingredient that shines in the hands of Chef Massimo. You won't find its delicate flavor lost in a coating of thick batter at Taggia. Here, the calamari is marinated in an herb oil made with rosemary, thyme, garlic, onion, and lemon before being grilled and dressed with a zippy lemon-caper vinaigrette. A genius supporting element is the charred eggplant and saba puree. "The puree itself is made with the skins of eggplant so that it gives it the black color, almost like squid ink, which is kind of the play on it," Chef Massimo describes. Saba is another favorite ingredient. "Saba is a naturally reduced balsamic vinegar stored in wooden casks. All the liquid and moisture evaporates and you're left with the natural grape must. Saba is a magical ingredient, it’s wonderful, and it becomes a sweet complement to the natural bitterness of the eggplant in this dish." Baby arugula adds its pepperiness to the balance, and a shower of fresh lemon zest is the final touch. "It's a party on a plate," says Chef Massimo. He's right, I love it, and it's my new favorite calamari dish in town.

Mention pasta and cream sauce in an Italian restaurant and most people think Alfredo. At Taggia, you're in for a special treat with Chef Massimo's take on this familiar dish. He starts with airy gnocchi made with fresh ricotta, lemon zest, nutmeg, eggs, and parmesan cheese, rolled and cut by hand. For the sauce, he works his magic by sauteeing garlic, onions, and sweet shallots in butter and olive oil, before deglazing with brandy and finishing with a little cream and parmesan cheese. "Then we toss in some black truffle shavings and it really just makes a wonderful perfume." Speck, a Northern Italian smoked and cured ham that chef describes as “prosciutto meets bacon” also makes an appearance. “We slice it and then slowly dry it in the oven so it gets a little crispy and intensifies the flavor.” To garnish, "chopped toasted hazelnuts adds a really lovely texture to the soft pillow-like ricotta gnocchi. You get that nuttiness, the saltiness of the speck, and the smooth creamy gnocchi." It is an amazing combination.

Seafood is treated lovingly at Taggia, as seen in a wonderful capesante (scallop in Italian) entree. "We start with East Coast, dry packed, sushi grade scallops. You’ll see the wonderful caramelization that happens with the cast iron pan. Everyone who has our scallops say the same thing – these are the best scallops I’ve had in my entire life." I agree. They are nestled in a silky heirloom carrot puree whose natural sweetness is magnified with a hint of coconut milk, paired with roasted corn, and crowned with an avocado salsa brightened with lemon and lime juice and capers as a nod to a Sicilian accent. "The puree itself acts as both a sauce and a starch and is a good base for all the components. The idea is to have a bite of the scallop and a scoop of the puree with the crisp vegetables and tangy salsa." It's a dish as delicious as it is beautiful.

Brasato al Barolo, a Piemontese classic often made with beef, is transformed at Taggia with veal cheeks braised for 6 hours in a rich jus of vegetables and red wine until they are fall-apart tender. Served on a bed of creamy parmesan polenta, they are festooned with a roasted medley of pioppini, portabello, and cremini mushrooms before being draped in a rich Barolo wine sauce and finished with smoked sea salt. “It’s one of the simplest dishes that we have, although it takes 12 hours to prepare the demi-glace, a reduction of Barolo, port, beef and veal stock.” It's a comfort dish that is both hearty and elegant.

The same thoughtfulness is exemplified on the dessert menu, such as the zabaglione. Chef Massimo explains that it is "the Italian version of a mousse or light custard." To make this Italian dessert, "marsala wine, sugar, and egg yolks get frothed and then folded into whipped cream with sugar, lemon and vanilla." Paired with a berry salad tossed with sugar, vanilla, lemon and orange zest, and mint, it gets its Taggia touch with the enhancement of fragrant lavender and crunchy cocoa nibs.

Chef Massimo is justly proud of his tiramisu, and it's a show-stopper. "It’s not your traditional tiramisu and the amount of work that goes into it is incredible." I admire the labor-intensive time that goes into this luxurious treat as I break into the dark chocolate shell encasing the layers of ethereal mascarpone mousse and sponge cake. It's a decadent finale and truly the best tiramisu I've ever had.

In the hands of a gifted chef such as Massimo de Francesca, you're assured to enjoy mouthwatering modern Italian fare that might just be the best version you've ever had of an old favorite. Reasonable prices for such a quality menu is a bonus and Taggia also features specials. On Mondays, 11 am to close, "Raid Our Cellar" offers a selection of bottles of wines at a 50% discount in both Taggia and the Lobby Bar. Nightly, a 3-course "Prezzo Fisso" menu is available with your choice of appetizer or pasta, entree, and dessert for $45. Starting October 5th, Taggia will be introducing an Aperitivo Hour, modeled on the Italian tradition of socializing with libations paired with small plates. With all these reasons to visit, it's the perfect time to make a reservation and see for yourself the delights to be found at Taggia.

Update: As of November 2016, Chef Massimo can be found at the Kimpton Seafire Resort + Spa on the Cayman Islands.

2 Comments 1 Likes

categories / Meet the Chef
tags / Taggia, Italian, Massimo de Francesca, Kimpton, Firesky resort

Franco's Italian Caffe

September 26, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

Going out to dinner tonight to one of our favorite spots - Franco's. This was an article I wrote for AZ Wine Lifestyle in 2013: Franco's Italian Caffe .

Comment 0 Likes

Restaurant Week at Atlas Bistro

September 20, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

We had made a reservation for Atlas Bistro weeks ago, forgetting that our plans fell on a Saturday night of Fall Arizona Restaurant Week. Would there be a limited menu or a lapse in service from a sold-out crowd? No, not at Atlas Bistro. In fact it was a happy surprise that their idea of Restaurant Week specials is to offer their entire menu as a 3-course prix-fixe of $44 with your choice of one dish from each course. I can definitively say that this is the best Restaurant Week dining we've ever enjoyed. So many mouth-watering options, how to choose?

I would love Atlas Bistro even if they weren't BYOB, but that just makes the experience even more stellar. Thanks to our friends of AZ Bitters Lab, who brought some special bottles from their collection to add to the Page Springs 2008 Glomski that I contributed: 2002 André Clouet Champagne Brut Millésimé, 2008 Domaine du Moulin (Hervé Villemade) CourCheverny Petits Acacia, 1998 Chateau Musar, and for dessert, a 1998 Maculan Torcolato.

Our delicious evening of creative, elegant dishes included:

Hudson Valley Foie Gras Pate, Wild Oregon Huckleberries, Candied Walnuts, Grapes, Celery, Granola, Balsamic, Huckleberry Coulis
Hawaiian Big Eye Tuna, Whipped Avocado, Togarashi Rice Sticks, Pickled Enoki Mushrooms, Scallions, Radish, Serrano, Ginger Emulsion
Golden Beets, Roth Kase Blue Cheese, Fennel, Vidalia Onion Brûlée, Swiss Chard, Rye Berries, Smoked Buttermilk, Red Beet Vinaigrette
Flagstaff Lobster Mushroom Ragout, Soft Poached Farm Egg, Shaved Toast, Tarragon, and an amazing Brown Butter Hollandaise Emulsion
Wild Hawaiian Hebi Spearfish, Pearled Cous Cous, Za’atar Shiitakes, Asparagus, Braised Leeks, Harissa, Charred Radicchio, Grapefruit Salsa
Australian Wagyu Hanger Steak, Citrus Cured Yolk, Red Lentils, Tempura Mushrooms, Broccoli, Curry Cauliflower, Shishitos, Black Mustard Demi-Glace

We opted to add an additional cheese course and dessert ("Stoned” Cheesecake Mousse, Nectarine Marmalade, Peach Coulis, Honey Fennel Pollen Crème Fraiche, Graham Cracker Crumbs) and the kitchen generously sent out two more sweet treats (Chocolate Torte with Dulce de Leche, Huckleberries, and Lime Anglaise and the “P.B. & J.” – Peanut Butter Trio with Cookies, Powdered & Brittle along with Cherry Jelly, Dried Cherries and Toast Foam). It was a perfect evening of harmonious flavors, art on a plate, and wonderful service from start to finish. In fact, before we had even finished dessert, we had made reservations for a return visit.

For pictures of our first visit, visit this link.

Comment 0 Likes

categories / Restaurant Week
tags / Atlas Bistro, Arizona Restaurant Week, Scottsdale

An Interview with Chef Bob Tam of Bitter and Twisted

August 31, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

Executive Chef Bob Tam’s background guides his global bar menu at Bitter & Twisted Cocktail Parlour in downtown Phoenix. He was born in Kowloon, Hong Kong, moving with his family of eight to San Francisco in the 1970s. His culinary career includes sous chef at Betelnut and 7 years working in research and development at P.F. Chang's along with a daily goal of exploring Phoenix's authentic ethnic spots. Take his addictive Angry Panda bar snack. Rooted in Indonesian sambal teri kacang (fried anchovies and peanuts spiked with chile), inspired by Betelnut’s embellished version and adding chef friend Erik Hopfinger’s suggestion of lettuce cups, and gilded with pineapple and mint, this 12-years-in-the-making nibble is a signature at Bitter and Twisted. Chef Bob's Yum Yum Noodles are another example, and a personal favorite of mine, especially with the optional pork belly. Their intense flavor and perfect texture are a result of a best friend’s tip to air dry the noodles before stir-frying, Bob's quest to impart a non-MSG umami using natural/secret ingredients (inspired by Crustacean’s famous garlic noodles) and letting the egg noodles soak up a buttery ginger, kecap manis, garlic and sesame sauce, and showering with cucumber and crispy shallots. One bite, and you’ll understand why Bob says he has been researching this dish since the 1990s.

Bitter and Twisted isn't the place to find a run-of-the-mill burger. Options with Chef Bob's creative spins could include a Dumpling Burger with jalapeño mayonnaise, Sichuan pickles, and an Asian chili sauce for dunking, a Pretzel Croissant Burger topped with an oozy fried egg, or the juicy Ramen Momo Burger with its pan-fried ramen bun, a Thrillist "Best Burger in Phoenix" winner.

Another crowd favorite? The Betelnut-inspired Pork Belly - tender chunks of savory braised pork belly draped in a sweet and tangy glaze made with a distinctive red vinegar from Hong Kong,

Explore the worldly menu, and you may find creamy Green Chili Mac studded with jalapeño and bacon, crunchy nuggets of Seoul Fried Chicken balanced on thin slices of watermelon kimchi, or hearty Smashed Chips enhanced with horseradish crema, salsa verde, avocado, and smoky red pepper sauce.

What made you decide to be a chef? My parents suggested it. We all take food seriously. Any time we have family gatherings, it revolves around food. That’s the communal part, you know, it’s always the kitchen or dining room. I remember watching my dad. He would take a nail file just to break open an egg, let it out, and then he would steam stuff in the shell. So we just did things like that. For us, that was experimental. I was kind of rebellious and not doing well in school. I had the ability, but not the motivation. My parents said well, apparently you like to eat, so why don’t you try cooking. I had never thought of it as something that could be a career. My mom gave me money and said go buy some stuff. I was in grade school.

So you must have been young. I was 13 or 14. I remember one of my best friends gave me 10 years of Gourmet so I started reading through and trying recipes. I didn’t really know anything and back then you couldn’t just Google. So I did all this weird stuff, experimenting but not even understanding what I was doing. Once in culinary school, I’d think back to some of the meals I made. Why would I wrap something in aluminum foil and stick it in a stockpot? What is that!? But my family was very supportive. They would say ‘that looks weird, but if the magazine says to do it...' They were very encouraging and urged me to go to culinary school. I was afraid to go, but finally took the leap. I stood in line for 16 hours the day before to get financial aid for the first semester.

Was it what you thought it would be? No, it was an epiphany in a way that I never would have expected. You know the first day of school, how freaked out you are, how nervous? It was intimidating at first, but once I started talking to everybody, I felt at home. You realize you’re just a bunch of misfits, like Tony Bourdain wrote. The way I grew up in San Francisco, we came from every different ethnic background. My best friends were a Filipino guy, Mexican, Italian, African American, and I was the Chinese guy so it was a diverse group. And then when I went to culinary school, it was similar, we were from all walks of life. One of my friends was a banker who decided he hated numbers and loved food. Some didn’t really have a passion for it, while others did. In my graduating class, there were a couple of guys that made Food & Wine's Best New Chefs.

How did you end up at Betelnut? In the last semester, they set you up with an internship. At the time I was about as unmotivated as you could be. My girlfriend of 2-1/2 years had just broken up with me, so when the counselor asked me what I wanted to do, I said I’ll work in a hotel, I don’t care, I heard there’s good money there. She was surprised. She said, are you sure you want to do repetition? And I answered no. She gave me the Betelnut menu and I saw a little Japanese, a little Korean, the way I like to eat. For the most part in culinary school they were old guard and taught mise en place, saute pans, French techniques, and nothing about Asian techniques. I even had an instructor who said ‘Asian is just soy sauce in everything.’ But I would always search out ethnic restaurants, Singaporean, Korean. As I do today; I go out and find super-ethnic, fun new things. I said to the counselor, are you kidding me? Wait a minute, I pay my own money to go to restaurants to research this type of food, and you’re telling me I can go and learn this at a restaurant that is James Beard-nominated? Really? Yes! After the first month, they started paying me. I was making about $6 an hour, basically just a little over minimum wage, but I was getting experience. I was challenged every day because I wanted to learn more about everything.

What was the most important thing you learned there? The wok was the big mesmerizing thing. For years, I would eat at Chinese restaurants and wonder why the food tasted different from home cooking. I mean, it’s not like you get a tour of Chinese restaurants. But at one point I found out that the burners are so much hotter. So I took an ice pick to my home burner. I thought wow, this works so much better and it really does make a difference. My mom freaked out. We didn’t even have vents so the ceiling would be black. After the second time they replaced it, they were like, just stop it. Are you going to clean that? No? I didn’t think so. So when I saw the wok at Betelnut, every day I would come in early and make myself something to eat because I had the facilities and the ingredients.

How long before you were promoted to sous chef? The big thing was turnover in San Francisco. Cooks wanted stepping stones and to build a resume. At my jobs, I stick around. I’m loyal, I’ve always been like that. I wanted to master the wok, I wanted to master the grill, I wanted to master expediting. I wanted to learn all the stations. If you show enough drive they have to give you an opportunity, and they made me sous chef in about a year and a half. I was 22, and was at Betelnut for 4-1/2 years.

Tell me about Bitter and Twisted. I’ve known the owner of this building so had been looking at this space. I had been in negotiations with other partners but none were a good fit. I had originally thought about a restaurant, but when I heard about the prohibition history of this building, I realized I didn’t want to be the focus. It needed to be a bar-focused project. A potential partner introduced me to his designer, and his designer introduced me to Ross. I realized I had met him before, at Gertrude’s when I was consulting and he was working for Southern and consulting on cocktails. We had a meeting, he showed me his business plan, and it took me all of one minute to look it over and say, ok, let’s go. I’ve seen enough business plans and enough training material to know when somebody is ready or not. It was so obvious. I was just like let’s get this done. He said, let’s do global-inspired bar food. Great! That’s what I want to do. I made a tasting schedule and we just knocked it out. Less than a year later, we opened.

What do you like most about being a partner at Bitter and Twisted? I love feeling part of a family, and I really love spending time with our staff. We have a lot of fun, we spend time together outside of work, I go to their kids’ birthday parties. We all have each other’s backs.

What do you see for the future? I’m really enjoying what we’re doing. I’m assuming eventually we’ll do more. I feel that if we make really, really good food, great cocktails, and we make people happy, success will follow success.

Bitter and Twisted Cocktail Parlour is located in downtown Phoenix at 1 W Jefferson St, Phoenix, AZ 85003. Hours are 4 pm to 2 am Tuesday through Saturday (closed Sunday-Monday). Phone: (602) 340-1924

2 Comments 2 Likes

tags / Bob Tam, Bitter and Twisted

Media Event at Macayo's Mexican Grill and Cantina

August 19, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

Macayo's is well known to its loyal customers here in Arizona with Woody Johnson having founded Macayo’s in 1946, and his daughter Sharisse Johnson continuing her father’s legacy. Last night the Scottsdale location held a media event to introduce us to recent changes, including two updated patios, a tequila window, expanded beverage program, renovated bar, and new menu items:

Our tablemates included the concierges from Sanctuary on Camelback and the Hotel Valley Ho, so of course there was much discussion about restaurants and resorts as we sipped margaritas. I ordered the featured margarita with fresh watermelon and jalapeño, and then the Simply Perfect made with Patrón Silver and Patrón Citrónge.

We shared queso fundido with creamy queso blanco, tacos of thinly-sliced jicama shells folded around fried shrimp and fruit salsa, and crispy panko-crusted avocado wedges with queso fresco and chipotle crema (my favorite of the night).

We had our choice of entrees, with my selection being the chile relleno with tomatillo sauce. Other choices at our table were my husband's chile relleno with red sauce, Bosio's Shrimp with chipotle sauce and cilantro rice, and rolled taquitos with shredded chicken and Baja sauce.

We polished off cinnamon sugar churros with Mexican chocolate sauce as a finale.

To go along with the new tequila window is an upcoming series of tequila dinners. See the schedule here.

A great introduction (and my first time at Macayo's). We'll be back - I'm already deciding which tequila dinner to book.

This was a complimentary media invite.

Comment 0 Likes

categories / Media Invite
tags / Macayo's, Mexican, Scottsdale, tequila dinner, patio

Another visit to EVO

August 15, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

I'm a fan of EVO (previous post here) and had a chance to introduce my friend Jenelle of Food & Lifestyles to this spot one night last month after a photo shoot at the Breadfruit. Since she had her camera, she took some great shots.

Dominic flaming absinthe for a Sazerac.

Bone marrow platter, crispy chicken thigh, octopus, and pork belly with compressed watermelon.

Comment 1 Likes

tags / EVO, Food & Lifestyles

Atlas Bistro BYOB

August 13, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

I was pretty excited about our first visit to Atlas Bistro when I posted this, and it did not disappoint. In fact, I left there knowing this spot had propelled itself into my top 5 favorite restaurant list immediately. Creative chefs, skillful use of global ingredients, wonderful dishes, BYOB, and a 3-course prix-fixe of $55 with too many delicious choices (I wanted it all). My favorite dish of the night? Hard to choose, but I'd have to say the duck duo with breast and confit, powdered duck skin and pickled peaches. I know my husband's was the poached lobster with gnocchi and charred creamed corn because he is still talking about it. They took a summer break, but we're ready with our September reservation.

Amuse: Sherry-marinated cherries with herbed goat cheese.

Duck breast, duck confit, powdered duck skin, fennel pollen, peach coulis, and pickled peaches. Chilled avocado soup with black bean fritter, Spanish chorizo, and piquillo pepperonata.

Poached lobster with gnocchi and charred creamed corn.

Cantaloupe and Casaba melon with Armenian cucumber tabouleh, jicama, lebneh, pickled watermelon rind, and za'atar. Wagyu hanger steak with beets, fingerling potatoes, and oyster mushrooms. Maine scallops with bok choy, blistered brussels sprouts, rice noodles, Maya's long beans, lemongrass-coconut broth.

Cheese plate and "Eat Dirt” – Peanut Butter Cookie, Salted Caramel Mousse, Dulce De Leche, Powdered Peanut Butter.

Comment 1 Likes

Happy Hour at Onyx

August 13, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

Upscale resorts might not be the first venue Arizona locals think of for Happy Hour deals, but Onyx at The Four Seasons Scottsdale will change that viewpoint. Not only are some of my favorite HH dishes, like the tempura octopus and lamb meatballs, being served with a view, but they are only $5 during 5 and 6 pm on Fridays and Saturdays.

Nick Padua, the assistant manager for Onyx and Talavera, has some new cocktails coming up. On our last visit, I was able to preview a delicious cocktail he's working on made with grapefruit and mezcal. If that was any hint of what's to come, I can't wait to see the list.

Comment 0 Likes

categories / Dining Out
tags / Happy Hour, Onyx, Four Seasons, octopus tempura, lamb meatballs

The Persian Room

August 12, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

The Persian Room in North Scottsdale has been around for more than 25 years, but I'm sad to say it took me 7 years of living in the valley before I made my first visit - but it won't be my last. In fact, I have lunch plans with friends again tomorrow.

It's a pretty, upscale space with a lofty second floor, chandeliers, and high ceilings. Generous portions for lunch made two meals, and I'm still thinking of the Kash O'bademjan (roasted eggplant with whey and topped with crispy garlic slices) and juicy chicken kebabs. The lunch plates come with regular basmati, but you can upgrade to a different rice dish. I loved the one with dates and lentils called Adas Polo. I was joined by two friends for lunch on my first visit and we enjoyed:

Doogh, a tangy carbonated drink with yogurt and milk. Each table also receives complimentary pita with butter, onion, and fresh basil.

Kash O'bademjan (roasted eggplant mixed with kashk/whey, garlic, onions & mint). Shirazi Salad with cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes.

Mast o moosier (yogurt and garlic dip). Lamb Koobideh (minced lamb kebabs) with Adas Polo (basmati rice with raisins, lentils, dates and saffron);

Beef Shish Kebab with basmati and Chicken Barg Sultani with two kinds of chicken kebabs and Baghala Polo (basmati with dill and fava beans).

If you need a speedy lunch, this isn't the place, so allow plenty of time. I especially liked the Doogh, Kas O'bdemjan, and Adas Polo, which I will be ordering again. And this time I'll save room for dessert!

Afterwards, I did a little shopping at the Caspian Market next door: Fava beans, Bulgarian feta, yogurt, zoolbia (honey syrup-soaked fried pastery) and pistachios.

Comment 0 Likes

categories / Dining Out
tags / Persian Room, Persian food

National Oyster Day at Walrus & The Pearl

August 09, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

On August 5th, to celebrate National Oyster Day, Chef Stephen Jones treated guests to a wonderful 3-course menu for $25 at his 11-seat raw bar, Walrus & The Pearl at DeSoto Market.

We started with an amuse of crunchy kimchi and pickled melon, before moving on to silky hamachi with roasted tomato vinaigrette, 5 different types of expertly-shucked oysters (with optional pairings), and bigeye poke spiked with yuzu and Sriracha.

Chef Stephen Jones and master shucker Pete.

The oysters were so good, that for "dessert" we ordered more: A half dozen Misty Point, 2 Chunus, and 2 Coromandel.

Comment 1 Likes

tags / oysterss, National Oyster Day, Walrus & The Pearl

EVO

July 24, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

It's no secret that I'm a huge fan of Chef Peter DeRuvo (I wrote an article here for AZ Wine Lifestyle when he was at Cuoco Pazzo). Since then, he left us for Chicago for a bit, but he's back and has joined EVO as executive chef. When I heard the good news, I made reservations ASAP. I started with a couple of Kris Korf's cocktails and then joined friends for dinner. EVO did not disappoint. Seven of us had a fantastic meal. It was the first time for one of my friends to have Chef DeRuvo's cooking. "Wow", she said, "it'll be hard to beat that meal", and I agree. (Not pictured: pappardelle with ragu, squid ink chitarra with crab and uni butter, controne poppers with cauliflower crema, and orecchiette with escarole and fennel sausage)

A Kris Korf creation with strawberries, blueberries, and gin.

Kris Korf's Appropos, a Negroni variation.

Focaccia

Crispy chicken thigh with olive oil mash and duck gravy

Pork belly with watermelon

Grilled octopus with romesco and pimento potatoes

Raviolo with egg, truffle ricotta and brown butter

Foie gras-stuffed ravioli with Marcona almonds

Beef heart sandwich with giardiniera and house mustard

48-oz bistecca

Comment 0 Likes

tags / Evo, Peter DeRuvo

Lebanese in the North Valley at Mashawi

July 20, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

My first visit to family-owned Mashawi Lebanese Grill wasn't planned. We were doing errands in the area when I noticed the sign. I love Lebanese cuisine, so of course I had to stop to check it out and pick up a menu. After reading through, however, I left with more than the menu and ordered chicken kofta (ground chicken kabobs seasoned with parsley, onion and garlic served with garlic sauce) and kibbeh (a crispy bulgur wheat shell filled with ground spiced beef) to go. One of my favorite elusive Lebanese dishes is kibbeh nayyeh made with raw lamb, pureed onion, bulgur wheat, and seasonings. Think a Lebanese lamb tartare but smooth with texture from the bulgur. Although it wasn't on the menu, I was told they could make it next time if I called ahead. Wonderful!

While I waited, the nice owner/father sent me out some some complimentary hummous, describing it as "the best because it was just made" and a "family recipe". Such a welcoming gesture. It was excellent - creamy, not grainy as some can be, with a bright hit of fresh lemon and a mild balance of tahini and garlic. Back home, the chicken kofta was juicy and flavorful, and the kibbeh is now one of my usual orders.

On my next visit, I pre-ordered the kibbeh nayyeh to share with friends. It was a perfect texture with a nice lamb to bulgur ratio, no sinew, smooth and buttery. I'll definitely make plans to have it again. The family has always been hospitable and friendly, though I'm overdue for a visit.

Falafel, baba ganoush, ‎and hummous; tabouli‬; warak arish (vegetarian stuffed grape leaves with tahini sauce), kibbeh nayyeh; chicken kofta and kibbeh; shish kafta (ground beef and lamb kabobs):

The address for Mashawi Lebanese Grill is 814 E. Union Hills Drive, #6, Phoenix, AZ 85024. Hours are 11 am to 9 pm seven days a week, and they offer delivery within 5 miles. Tel: 623-879-6777.

4 Comments 0 Likes

categories / Dining Out
tags / Lebanese, Phoenix, West Valley, kibbeh nayyeh, kibbe, falafel, kafta, kofta

Casa Filipina Restaurant and Bakeshop

July 08, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

Lumpiang Shanghai at Casa Filipina in Phoenix

While Filipino cuisine may not enjoy the same widespread recognition as some other Asian counterparts, a trip to Casa Filipina in Phoenix can easily remedy that. My introduction to the cuisine was a delicious chicken and okra adobo cooked by a Filipino chef friend (Mita's Kitchen Table) when I lived in Beverly, Massachusetts in the late 1990s. I was immediately hooked on this dish with its distinctive vinegary braise. Imagine how happy I was to find this Arizona spot.

Casa Filipina owners, husband and wife Tony and Tess, are culinary school graduates who worked in resorts before opening their bakery in 2006, and in 2007 expanded into a restaurant. Hallmarks of Filipino cooking include the influence of centuries of Spanish colonial rule and its proximity to Malaysia and China. Trying Filipino food for the first time? Start with classic dishes such as lumpiang Shanghai (thin, crispy spring rolls), chicken adobo (braised with garlic and vinegar), pancit (stir-fried rice noodles), chicken inasal (marinated grilled chicken seasoned with annatto and served with pancit and rice) or lechon kawali (crispy pork belly).

There are also helpful photos on the wall behind the dessert cases. The menu is divided into categories such as beef, pork, chicken, noodles, and fish, so there is plenty to explore. My personal favorite (not always available, I suggest calling ahead) is sizzling binagoongan with roast pork, eggplant, and an ingredient called bagaoong, an umami flavor bomb of fermented shrimp or fish paste. I'm addicted to the earthy-funky saltiness it imparts.

Sizzling binagoongan — Sizzling *binagoongan*

Dessert is also a star, as you'll see when you enter. Be sure to save room for a halo-halo ("mix-mix") , and remember to take some baked goods home too. It will be quite a while before I work my way through the treats that fill their cases, but some favorites are the sapin-sapin (a layered glutinous rice dessert), pastries using ube (purple yam), coconut tarts, and tiramisu made with marsala wine. And I'm sure to leave with pan de leche (sweet bread) and pan de sal (salted rolls), along with the best banana bread in town.

One of my favorite restaurants in the West Valley, this gem is not to be missed.

Fried peanuts with garlic

Pickled green papaya relish with peppers, garlic, carrots, and raisins

Sweet buns topped with whipped butter, cheese, and sugar

Sweet rolls stuffed with ube/purple yam filling.

Sweet rolls filled with coconut

Part of the menu

Lumpiang Shanghai

Sago at gulaman (a Filipino drink with gelatin, tapioca pearls, crushed ice).

Sisig - chopped pork including pig ears and jowl sauteed with garlic and onions, garnished with jalapenos

Pancit, rice noodles with vegetables and chicken and served with puto (steamed rice cake)

Kare-kare (pork stew in a peanut sauce garnished with green beans)

Bagoong (shrimp paste) served with the kare-kare

Sinigang na Baboy (a soup with pork and vegetables in a tamarind broth)

Pata - braised and fried pork hock.

Cut up pata.

Chicken adobo - braised with vinegar, garlic and soy sauce

Lechon kawali

Tagong - omelette with eggplant and ground pork

Chicken inasal

Turon - banana spring rolls

Sapin-sapin, 3-layer glutinous rice cake with ube (purple yam), macapuno (coconut), and langka (jackfruit)

Macapuno/coconut tart, eclair, tiramisu made with marsala wine

Purple yam (ube) desserts including ube and cheese stuffed pastry, tart, cheesecake, and mousse torte.

Halo Halo (crushed ice, evaporated milk, mung beans, jackfruit, attap, sweet garbanzos, topped with flan and Tess' homemade ube ice cream)

Kirti being shown the proper way to mix

Casa Filipina is located at 3531 W Thunderbird Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85053, Phone: (602) 942-1258

1 Comment 1 Likes

categories / Dining Out, West Valley
tags / Filipino food, sisig, bagoong, binagoongan, ensaymada, ube, bakery, pancit, lumpiang, chicken inasal

Tottie Kaya of Tottie's Asian Fusion

June 29, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

PHOTOS BY JENELLE BONIFIELD OF FOOD & LIFESTYLES

I have my friend Jenelle Bonifield to thank for introducing me to the experience that is Tottie's Asian Fusion. I had always heard good things, both about the food and vivacious Tottie herself, and I wasn't disappointed. I just wish I hadn't waited so long.

Born and raised in Laos, Tottie Kaya came to the U.S. in 1979. Cooking is in her genes as her mother was a renowned caterer for the Laotian royal family. In 2003, Tottie attained her dream of owning her own restaurant, and opened Shanghai Palace. She later changed the name to Tottie’s Asian Fusion to reflect her multi-cultural menu and the dishes she grew up on and enjoyed making at home. By 2006, Tottie was recognized as one of the Valley’s Best New Chefs on the cover of Food & Life magazine. In 2008, Tottie’s Asian Fusion won a Best of the Valley award from Phoenix Magazine. With this success, she opened a second location in 2009, Tottie’s Asian Fusion 2. While the menus are similar, there are minor differences. The original location includes a sushi bar, and the second has a pretty patio shaded with printed umbrellas. It was here in this lush oasis surrounded by tropical plants – papyrus, hibiscus, palms, plumeria and more - that I had a chance to chat with its convivial owner. Tottie explains how she also loves to garden and the patio is a labor of love that she designed. She even points out a papaya tree she started from seed and a second garden out back where she is growing guava and fresh chiles and Thai basil for her dishes.

She is just as enthusiastic about the menu. “When I opened Shanghai Palace, it was only a Chinese menu. It took a while to get established, to learn what the customers liked and then change the menu accordingly. My grandfather is Thai and Chinese, and Laos is next to Vietnam, and that’s why I opened this as fusion. I wanted to do something different and so I added Thai and Vietnamese; a little of this and a little of that.” You’ll find Laotian dishes like larb and green papaya salad, Vietnamese phở and bún tôm, and Thai curries and pad thai in addition to the Chinese dishes.

Tottie’s Rolls are a bestseller and it’s easy to see why. Vietnamese spring rolls are served with lettuce, mint, and cilantro and I love the addictive flavor contrast of a crisp warm roll with the cool greens and fresh herbs. Tottie explains one reason for their popularity, “Even though they're fried, you don’t feel so guilty because of all the vegetables and herbs you wrap it up with.” She adds, “We have a lot of spring rolls. We have lemongrass chicken spring rolls, softshell crab, salmon, and shrimp tempura; not just the traditional spring rolls. My favorite is the softshell crab spring roll and a side of our housemade chili sauce which is spicy with a little citrus.”

When asked about other personal menu favorites, Tottie says, “I love the red curry duck with noodles, the curry salmon with pho noodles, Tottie’s Rolls, green curry, kang keo wan - I like that a lot - and pad thai.” Vietnamese is also a favorite; “I could eat phở every day.” I even get some helpful hints on making bánh xèo (one of my favorite Vietnamese dishes) at home. Tottie tells me how her mother "made it with fresh turmeric, grated, and left to soak in the batter overnight.” Thanks for the tip Tottie! She mentions that "the Thai menu is very popular, especially the pad thai, the panang, and the pad kra pao.” As I enjoy more delicious dishes - crunchy, creamy shrimp puffs, spicy larb with minced chicken tossed with lime juice, chiles, and fresh herbs, and shrimp salad with juicy mango - I ask if she has ever put a dish on the menu that didn’t sell. After a brief pause, Tottie laughs and says "No, they like it all! Sometimes I’ll make something to eat and say to myself, this is really good, and I’ll put it on the menu as a special."

Tottie's Rolls

Shrimp puffs

Mango shrimp salad

Chicken larb

Coconut and avocado ice creams

I inquire about desserts and Tottie’s eyes light up. “You have to try the fried honey bananas, mango and sticky rice, and I make all the ice cream, though today there’s only five”. It turns out she sometimes has up to nine flavors, all made with coconut milk and non-dairy and vegan. You won’t miss the dairy with these – they’re creamy and bursting with flavors such as mango, pineapple, coconut, lychee, and avocado. When I mention how fresh the flavors are, Tottie assures me that "the pineapple is great in a piña colada." I know what I"m trying on my next visit.

Mango, avocado, pineapple, lychee and coconut ice cream

And Tottie knows her cocktails, having worked for years as a bartender before opening her restaurants. “I love to mix some crazy drinks”, and she tells me about her volcano bowl and a special layered libation popular with the regulars. As I sip on a Peace on Earth, made with TY KU Citrus Liqueur and lychee sake, I comment on how well it pairs with the mango shrimp salad I’m eating. “Exactly!” agrees Tottie.

You'll find Tottie busy in the kitchen at Tottie's Asian Fusion 2 . During lunch, she informs me, “I cook by myself for the whole dining room”, and has another cook who comes in for the dinner rush. When I ask this busy woman what she does on her days off, "eat and shop" is her answer as she tells me a favorite stop is the Mekong Market. And did I mention that she was running a 5K the day after this interview?

As we chat, she greets patrons with a cheery hello and I can see why Tottie is so beloved. She is welcoming, gregarious and full of life. Whether it be in regard to running her restaurants, her busy schedule, or how she loves to cook, more than once Tottie emphasizes what is important to her: “It’s about having fun!”, she says, and this certainly shows.

Comment 5 Likes

categories / Dining Out
tags / Tottie's Asian Fusion

Monthly Mashup at Talavera with Chefs Mel Mecinas and Christopher Gross

June 24, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

Two chefs, one kitchen is the idea behind the Monthly Mashup series at Talavera at the Four Seasons Scottsdale Troon North. The program kicked off in March, with a different guest chef each month joining Executive Chef Mel Mecinas in the Talavera kitchen. I love the thought behind this concept - enjoying the food of not just one, but two favorite chefs as they team up to create a menu featuring each other's culinary creativity and philosophy. “The best way to grow as a chef is to partner and learn from other chefs,” says Executive Chef Mel Mecinas. “Taking two concepts and blending them together – for one night only – gives each chef the opportunity to expand their skills and offer diners a truly unique experience.” In May, the collaboration was between Mel Mecinas and Christopher Gross, two talented chefs whom I've spotlighted in the past in AZ Wine Lifestyle. Seated on the gorgeous Talavera patio on a beautiful spring evening, this Mashup menu did not disappoint:

Our evening in photos:

View from the terrace at Onyx, Talavera's lounge.

Our table on the scenic Talavera patio

Warm poppy seed rolls with butter and Hawaiian pink salt

Bubbly to start

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs paired with the amuse

Amuse collaboration: smoked salmon and caviar on a chive spoon + escargot croquette and truffle aioli

Paired with our first course

Christopher's diver scallop with mushroom pasta, English pea puree and nasturtiums

Paired with our duck course

Mel's duck breast with seared foie gras, fig brulee, endive, and orange gastrique

Dinner with a view

Sommelier Shaun Adams

Paired with the lamb course

Deconstructed rack of lamb (loin, roasted bones, cap) with roasted vegetables and meadowsweet

Loved learning about the meadowsweet garnish

Sunset

Bonus course: Madeira paired with a brie Napoleon

Triple creme brie Napoleon with grapes, walnuts, olive oil powder and apricot marmalade.

Pastry Chef Lance Whipple

Lance Whipple, Mel Mecinas, and Christopher Gross

Paired with our final dessert

Strawberry cream cake with Grand Marnier, pistachios, and crispy meringue

We were hosted by the Four Seasons and our meal was complimentary.

Comment 0 Likes

categories / Dining Out
tags / talavera, christopher gross, mel mecinas, collaboration

Rosita's Place

June 23, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

Thanks to my friends at AZ Bitters Lab who recommended Rosita's Place. Casual, nice margaritas and a well-executed menu. It's a new favorite Mexican restaurant, and I'm still thinking about the machaca enchilada with chili verde.

Salsas

Fresh-fried chips

Large margarita

Chili Relleno

Pollo con mole

Carnitas taco

Machaca enchilada with chili verde

Flan

Comment 1 Likes

categories / Dining Out
tags / Mexican, Rosita's Place, Phoenix

Andreoli Italian Grocer

June 19, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

This Italian grocer, deli and restaurant offers fantastic authentic dishes, desserts, sandwiches, freshly baked bread, and housemade salumi. It's hard to decide between ordering a favorite off the menu or daily specials like grilled calamari, branzino or spaghetti vongole. And I never leave without doing a little shopping to take home quality ingredients such as pasta, veal chops, wine, imported Italian pantry items or a box of Italian pastries.

Gnocchi

Grilled calamari

Fresh baked bread

Bacala

Branzino

Rum cake

Spaghettini con vongole

Tizio sandwich (homemade sausage with peppers and onions)

Patatine fritte - fried potatoes with crispy leeks

Sfogliatelle

Pappardelle, chitarra, Verrigni spaghettoro, Italian tuna, sopressata, scamorza, & San Marzano tomatoes

Bread, hot sopressata, bottarga, pounded bone-in veal chops, Pecorino Romano, and fontina

Comment 1 Likes

categories / Dining Out
tags / Andreoli's, Italian, grocer, bacala, branzino, gnocchi

Welcome Chicken + Donuts

June 18, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

With a nice start to the day as a guest panelist at the PRSA Phoenix Table Talk Media Breakfast, I finally had the opportunity to visit Welcome Chicken and Donuts. We live in the NW Valley, so I took advantage of being out and about early, and its proximity, to cross another must-get-to spot off my list. Chef Michael Babcock of Welcome Diner opened WC+D with a focused menu featuring Asian-style fried chicken (sauce options include Vietnamese, Korean, and Japanese) and donuts (classics such as glazed or cake, and premium such as key lime or cajeta mesquite). Alas, I was half an hour early for the fried chicken, which isn't served until 10:30 a.m., but I certainly didn't leave disappointed.

From left to right starting with the top:

Kaffir and matcha, Thai tea and Arnold Palmer, Double Chocolate, Chocolate Glazed
Almond Butter and Jelly Glazed, Apple Fritter, Classic Glazed, Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough
Honey Butter Almond, Classic Glazed, Chocolate Glazed, Strawberry Balsamic.

And what did I try first? The Almond Butter and Jelly Glazed, a decadent combination of rich, nutty filling and tangy, fruity icing.

Comment 0 Likes

categories / Dining Out
tags / Welcome Chicken and Donuts, Phoenix, donut, Arizona, coffee, lunch

Earnest in Chandler

June 17, 2015 / Christina Barrueta

Photo Credit: Earnest

Last year, upscale dining spot Cork revamped its décor and menu. Co-owner Danielle Morris, Executive Pastry Chef and restauranteur, wanted to appeal to a regular clientele, not just a special occasion crowd, and re-opened it as Earnest. Recently I was invited to try the new menu, and made a reservation for my first visit. “Comfort food, redefined” is the tagline and the atmosphere befits this description with clean-lined wood furniture, dark colors, a chalkboard wall, and a striking wine case. Warmly welcomed by the affable General Manager, Winston de la Cruz, we are seated at a cozy banquette and table awash with the warm light of the setting sun. “Would you like to start with bubbly?” asks Scott, our wise waiter. We’ll soon find out he has many more smart decisions in store as we are treated to the dishes, wine pairings, and cocktails to come.

Former sous chef Sean Williamson is now the Executive Chef and while he has kept many menu favorites, he has also added his own, such as the excellent country pate. The effervescence of the sparkling wine cuts through the richness of the creamy chicken liver pate studded with chunks of bacon, making this a perfect beginning to our meal. Next, spinach salad elevated by the sweetness of apple and the textural crunch of corn nuts is crowned with a crispy soft-boiled egg, its yolk joining with the bacon vinaigrette to create the perfect dressing. After a palate cleanser of blood orange sorbet, we move on to equally delicious entrees. Scott pours a Spanish Garnacha as we savor a juicy double-cut pork chop garnished with whole grain mustard and applesauce and served on a bed of sausage and cheddar potatoes, and the Wednesday special, fantastic, perfectly-seasoned fried chicken in a crunchy, craggy crust served with asparagus and tempura avocado. The two sides change weekly, but I’d be happy to have that tempura avocado as a permanent addition. And how can we refuse dessert? Especially when it’s cinnamon bread pudding with caramel and crème fraiche ice cream strewn with colorful edible petals and a sophisticated crème brulee take on PB&J with pâté de fruit and honey-roasted peanuts, both paired with a glass of Tokaji.

With Sean manning the bar, cocktails don’t disappoint either. We sip on well-crafted libations and try the Revival (a tequila cocktail), a rum Manhattan, Last Word (one of my favorite classics), and a decadent Espresso Martini to finish. A bonus was the opportunity to sit down with Chef Sean, Assistant Pastry Chef Alyssa, and Winston after the meal and learn more about this engaging group of talent. A friendly team, skillful chef, excellent cocktails, and perfect service. We’ll be back. I just wish they were in my neighborhood so I could be a regular. Especially on Wednesdays.

Summer Specials at Earnest include Throwback Thursday featuring their most popular Cork (and Earnest) dishes. Also, children 12 and under eat free with the purchase of one adult entree (per child). For Kids Menu and Throwback Thursday specials, view online at Earnest/events or call 480-883-3773 to make reservations.