From Burgundy to California: Boyer Family Winery
“It’s pretty amazing that Arizona gets this entire production of a famous Burgundian winemaker,” says Richard Betts, sales ambassador for Boyer Family Winery. “And you can only get it from me,” he adds with a smile as he explains the limited inventory is available exclusively to Arizona residents and businesses.
It has been two decades since Vincent Boyer, fourth generation winemaker, took over the reins of his family’s acclaimed estate, Domaine Yves Boyer-Martenot in the heart of Meursault, Burgundy. Now he has broadened his portfolio to California in conjunction with Arizona resident Gabriel Justice.
I recently had a chance to sit down with Betts to learn more as we tasted two elegant expressions from Boyer Family Winery - the inaugural 2019 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay and 2019 Escolle Vineyard Pinot Noir.
Why was Arizona chosen for the release?
Vincent’s US partner in this project is Gabriel Justice, who lives in Scottsdale, and so the entire production of the premier vintages of these amazing wines is here in Arizona.
How did this project come about?
Vincent’s family winery has been around for four generations. They're one of the top domaines in Mersault and highly regarded. Growing up in a wine family, it was a given that at some point he would be taking over as winemaker. As you know, a lot of young winemakers will travel to other countries and other wine-producing regions. Vincent had spent some time in California and worked for Truchard for a while. He loves California and it's always been a dream of his to produce real Burgundian-style wine with California grapes.
Where are the grapes sourced from?
Vincent was looking for the right grapes all over California. He could have gotten grapes from anywhere, but when he saw the vineyards in the central coast, Santa Lucia Highlands in particular, he said ‘this is the terroir I’m looking for, these are the grapes.’ He has a special partnership with Caraccioli Cellars and a long-term contract with an Escolle Vineyard block, so these are all single vineyard.
How did Boyer and Justice form their collaboration?
The stars aligned. Gabriel lived in Carmel-by-the-Sea in Monterey and he had, I think, two or three restaurants at the time, so he was really dialed into the wine industry there. A mutual friend put him together with Vincent because they knew Vincent was looking for a US partner for this project. Gabriel bought a one-way ticket to France to meet Vincent, and wound up fast friends, staying with him for nearly a year, working crush and harvest and just learning the whole process.
Tell me about the wines
The vineyard is sustainably certified and uses native yeasts and natural farming techniques. Boyer Family is just a little over a 200 case production, so they're able to sell here directly and not use a distributor. The wines are impeccable and made exactly the way Vincent would make his wine from French grapes. There's no one else making wines like this as a Burgundian winemaker in California. They’re representative of Old World wines and the perfect marriage of California and Burgundy.
For example, take this Chardonnay, the premier vintage. It’s low alcohol, 13%. It’s a very gentle winemaking process, one punch-down a day and gentle pump-overs. It rests for 12 months in 20% new oak from a French barrelmaker that Vincent uses; he also ships his used barrels from France. After that it rests in concrete eggs for an additional 10 months before it's bottled. The first time I tasted this, I would never have guessed California. What Vincent is looking for in these wines is his favorite word - and I love this - ‘tension.’ That's the balance between the acid and the fruit. These wines are impeccably made and the purity of fruit is remarkable.
Where can we find Boyer Family wines?
Restaurants include Binkley’s, Cafe Monarch, Cala, Wrigley Mansion, Maple & Ash, and Anhelo, which serves it by the glass. You can buy them at Atlas Wines, and soon, AJ’s. In Sedona, Lisa Dahl has an exclusive at Mariposa, Cucina Rustica, and Dahl & Diluca. People can contact me for direct sale at rwinebetts at aol.com.